Grapes Varieties

In the past century a number of grape varieties were planted in Champagne and in theory, wines bearing the appellation can include Pinot Blanc Vrai Arbanne and Petit Meslier. Today, the whole vineyard is planted with three varieties, the black Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, and the white Chardonnay.

* Pinot Noir:The black grape variety traditionally used in Champagne, as in Burgundy. It is a delicate variety, susceptible to spring frosts and, later in the year, to rot. Although it is no longer as dominant in the champagne blend as it was, it still provides the basic structure and depth of fruit in the blend.

* Pinot Meunier: A variant of the Pinot Noir, dating back to the sixteenth century. It is so-called because of a certain floury whiteness on the leaves (meunier = miller). Only in Champagne and particularly in the Valley of the Marne is it widely grown. It provides many Champagnes with an early-maturing richness and fruitiness.

* Chardonnay: One of the most widely-grown varieties of white grape in the world. In Champagne, it was traditionally grown on the east-facing slopes of the Cote des Blancs, south of Epernay, but in the past fifty years has proved suitable in many other sub-regions, especially the Cote de Sezanne. in Champagne, it grows strongly and buds early, thus making it susceptible to spring frosts. It imparts a certain austerity to young Champagnes, but is long- lived and matures to a fine fruitiness.

The secret of classic Champagnes is the careful blending of white wines made from both back and white grapes.

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Champagne Region

Covering some 250 kilometres, from Auxerre to the south of Macon, the Burgundy wine region divides into five distinct areas: Chablis, the Cote de Nuits, and the Cote de Beaune, (together known as the Cote d'Or); the Cote Chalonnaise and the Maconnais. The vines cover about 22,000 hectares. Burgundy uses only a few grape varieties for its AOC wines: Chardonnay and Aligote for white wines, Pinot Noir for red wines and Gamay for some red Macon.

The wines produced in these areas are distinctly different from one another, and there are further differences within each area , but all good Burgundy shares certain characteristics, the red is smooth and soft, but charged with lingering scent and flavour - traits most powerfully displayed by Chablis, Burgundy's best known white wine.

While the differences between Burgundies are most enjoyably explored glass in hand, they can also be studied on paper, in form of the Burgundy Appellation Controlee classifications. These were laid down over fifty years ago and provide the strict quality and quantity controls which underpin Burgundy's reputation. There are over one hundred different appellations within the Burgundy region, and they fall into four categories. The highest is 'Grand Cru' followed by 'Premier Cru', the village appellations and the broader regional or generic appellations.

Of the thirty eight Grand Crus, seven are in Chablis and the rest in the Cote de Nuits and the Cote de Beaune, Grand Crus do not normally carry the name of the 'commune' or parish, they come from. The simple, single vineyard (or if the wine comes from more than one vineyard, the commune name followed by the words 'Premier Cru').

The third rank, the village appellations, features the commune name. A vineyard name is permitted only if printed in letters much smaller than the name of the commune.

Finally there are the lesser vineyards, which may lie within the famous communes, but whose wine will receive one of the general classifications: Bourgogne, Bourgogne Passe-Tout-Grains, Bourgogne Aligote... The Burgundy appellation regulations are so specific because of the myriad local variations in soil and exposure to the elements, These variations are reflected in the everyday language of the vineyard; individual fields are known as 'climats', and the particular climate of a great vineyard - the hours of sun it receives, the protection it has from the wind, the altitude and slope of the ground as well as its composition - can explain its superiority over a neighbouring vineyard using the same vine stock and production techniques.

As well as place names, the appellation regulations specify grape varieties (principally Pinot Noir for red and Chardonnay for white), production quantities and sugar levels at harvest time. Overall, equal quantities of red and white are produced, although of course the ratio varies from one area to another: in Chablis for example, only white wine is made, while in the Cote de Nuits virtually all the wine is red.

As for Bugundy's reputation for producing rare and expensive wines, the fact is that of every hundred, only three will be 'Grand Cru' and ten 'Premier Cru' - the most exclusive categories. This leaves a further eighty seven bottles please every palate and every pocket. Thirty five will fall into the village appellation class and the other fifty-two will be regional wines such as Bourgogne rouge, Macon or Cremant de Bourgogne, a sparkling wine made by the same method and using the same grape varieties as Champagne. Given such a choice, and given the assurance of the strictest quality controls at every level, there is absolutely no reason why everone shouldn't enjoy Burgundy.

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Production & Cultivation

The Champagne harvest involves intense care. To make pure white wine from black grapes, all damaged, split or rotten berries have to be rejected. The bunches must be pressed as gently as possible to avoid crushing the skins. Wine from the first and gentlest pressing is best of all.

Fermentation comes naturally and rapidly to the sugar-rich juices. By early spring the wines are ready for blending; full of character, rather high in acidity. This is the moment when historically they used to start a natural fermentation. The champagne process is to capture and magnify this by bottling the cuvee with a measure of sugar and a little ration of yeasts: exactly enough to add one degree to the alcoholic strength, but no less than six atmospheres pressure of carbon dioxide. Trapped in the bottle the gas stays dissolved in the wine.

Within a few weeks, the second fermentation is over; the sugar is consumed, the wine is sparkling and the yeast is dead. By law the non-vintage bottle must be kept for a further twelve months to mature in its cold cellar. Most are kept for at least two years, and vintage champagne for three and more. In the bottle, the wine matures slowly - to take on the unique savours of champagne.

The final act in the champagne method is the remuage and degorgement. First the yeast has to be coaxed down the side of the bottle to rest on the cork - upside down. A process of remorseless nudging known as remuage tinge is the only way. Then the inch of cloudy wine-and- yeast has to be removed, leaving the rest crystal clear. The modern way is to freeze the neck of the bottle, remove the cork and let the pressure shoot the frozen pellet out. The missing inch is replaced with more champagne and an optional measure of sugar which determines whether the wine is wholly dry - the liqueur d 'expedition.

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How Champagne is Made

Grape Proportions
The traditional Champagne blend contains the juice of two-thirds black grapes (Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier) and one-third white (Chardonnay), reflecting the plantings in the region. But depending on where they purchase grapes, or where they own vineyards, many Champagne houses blend grapes in other proportions, i.e. two-thirds white wine to one-third red, or 50-50, or 60-40, or 40-60. This explains why Champagne can vary in style from light and elegant to full and robust. Other styles can be produced by varying the proportions of the two black grapes in the blend.

Pinot Noir
The black grape variety traditionally used in Champagne, as in Burgundy. It adds backbone, strength and depth of flavour to the blend. Both Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier have a deep golden, occasionally pinky glow to them.

Pinot Meunier
A variant of the Pinot Noir, dating back to the sixteenth century. It has an aromatic nose and soft, subtle, quick-maturing qualities that marry the other two varieties and tone down any overtly flavoured edges they may have had. Pinot Meunier provides many Champagnes with an early-maturing richness and fruitiness.

Chardonnay
It imparts elegance, freshness, lightness and finesse. It gives a certain austerity to young Champagnes, but is long-lived and matures to a fine fruitiness.

Blending the wines
The art of making Champagne consists of the blending of up to fifty wines from different crus or villages. Each one adds a separate and distinctive dimension to the wine. The wine maker each year will draw on the different crus at his disposal to make a wine that shows a consistency of style and quality. For example, the Pinot Noir grapes from the Grand Cru village of Bouzy, have the reputation of an added richness of flavour, a high alcoholic content and great weight to the blends that they grace.

Chardonnay grapes from le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Cramant have exceptional quality and character. Blends to which they are added have great finesse and penetrating perfume which can dominate an entire cuvee.

Reserve wines also play an important role in the blending. According to the quality of the current vintage, reserve wines can represent in volume up to 30% or even more of the Non-Vintage blend. The adding of reserve wines provides a more mature taste to the blend. Therefore, its proportion in the cuvee also varies depending on the style of the Champagne.

Non-Vintage
The bulk of all Champagnes is Non-Vintage, accounting for more than 75% of that sold. The Non-Vintage Champagne of any House is therefore its flagship product representative of its individual style. The base of a Non-Vintage bleed will always be from the current harvest with the addition of reserve wines kept from previous years. Great Non-Vintage Champagnes regularly contain wines from six or seven vintages going back 10 years or more and this contributes a fascinating complexity.
Every year on average, 20% of the vintage is kept in reserve for the improvement of the future Non-Vintage blend. The still wine kept in reserve is stocked in casks, vats or even in bottles (magnum). The cuvee is maintained as closely as possible, to exactly the same standard year after year.
Many Champagne Houses make more than one type of Non-Vintage. Every House makes a different style of Non-Vintage Champagne, varying from light to full-bodied. The youngest Non-Vintage Champagne released will be at least 12 months old Most Non-Vintage Champagne has at least three years' bottle age.
The average Non-Vintage cuvee is a blend of about two-thirds black grapes to one-third white.

Vintage or Millesime
A Vintage Champagne is the wine of an exceptional year that is made by blending 20-30 wines in the cuvee, all made from grapes of the same year. The year is shown on the bottle. Vintages will be declared by the establishment on average three or four times in every decade. Vintage Champagnes normally age longer on the yeast than Non-Vintage Champagnes, on average they have at least five years' bottle age.
They are more full-bodied and tasty, with the potential to improve for several more years. A maximum of 80% of the yield can be blended as Vintage Champagne. This entails that at least 20% of any vintage will be kept in reserve for the inprovement of future blends. Vintage Champagnes possess the individuality of their year, as well as that of the establishment.

Prestige Cuvees
Prestige Cuvee Champagnes, otherwise known as "Cuvee Speciale' were originally produced by certain Champagne Houses for particularly important clients, such as the Russian Royal Court. They were made exclusively for this purpose, and were not available to members of the public. The times have changed, and although this elite style of Champagne only accounts for 3% of production, today anyone can enjoy a Prestige Cuvee. 1t is generally acknowledged that the quality and complexity of a Prestige Cuvee is a luxury that has no equal anywhere else in the world.
Typically a deluxe Champagne might be made up entirely of wines from Grand Cru vineyards (usually owned by the House) and if not a Vintage, blended from only the greatest years.
They are made in the most traditional way using the methods of craftsmen handed down from generation to generation, which include agraffe corks during the second fermentation, disgorgment a la volee'' and, in the bottling process, bottles similar to those used in the eighteenth century.
They can be Vintage, Non-Vintage, Blancs de Blancs. Some Houses additionally produce a Rose Prestige Cuvee.

Blanc de Blancs
Blanc de Blancs, literally meaning White of Whites', is a wine made exclusively with Chardonnay grapes, the only white grape used in Champagne. This style of Champagne was given great publicity by lan Fleming in the early James Bond books, where the hero always ordered a Blanc de Blancs. Traditionally, it is served as an aperitif because of its fresh, light style. Alternatively, it matches equally well with fish and shellfish dishes. Nowadays, because of its popularity, the name Blanc de Blancs has been taken over by other producers outside Champagne.
The most famous Chardonnay grapes used in Champagne come from the Cote des Blancs, situated to the south of Epemay. The soil is almost pure chalk, the most ideal terrain for the grape. "Blanc de Blancs" will not necessarily appear on the label.
Blanc de Blancs Champagnes have the greatest ageing potential of all Champagnes due to being totally comprised of Chardonnay.
This style of Champagne develops anything from a toasty-lemony bouquet to attractive tropical fruit flavours (if from the Cote de Sezanne).
Blanc de Blancs Champagnes are traditionally light, zippy wines, often appreciated for their elegance and finesse.

Blanc de Noirs
Blanc de Noirs, literally meaning 'White of Blacks", is made from Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier grapes, the two black-skinned grapes used to make Champagne. It is less widely available than Blanc de Blancs. As it is more full-bodied, Blanc de Noirs Champagnes go exceptionally well with richer dishes and are considered good Champagnes to match with food.
The most famous Pinot Noir grapes come from the Grand Crus villages in the Montagne de Reims, situated southeast of Reims.
'Blanc de Noirs' will not necessarily appear on the label. They are generally fruity and full, with a pronounced bouquet.

Rose Champagne
According to the British wine writer Patrick Forbes, no wine is more difficult to make than Rose Champagne. It is produced by one of the following two methods: adding a small proportion of red wine to the blend. The most famous red wines of Champagne come from Bouzy or Ambonnay in the Montagne de Rheims and Ay in the Vallee de la Marne.
Or by letting the juice remain in contact with the skin of the grapes far a short time during fermentation. In general, roses have less acidity than white Champagnes and are best drunk as young as possible.

Single Vineyard Wines
Single Vineyard Champagnes are exceptional wines both as regards their style and their rarity. The Single Vineyards are usually called "dos " in Champagne. Clos literally means that they are cut off from the other surrounding vineyards by a wall. This particularity enhances their unique growing environment. Single Vineyard Champagnes are relative newcomers on the market.
They are characterised by great individuality and rarity.

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Types of Champagne

Types of Champagne: from dry to sweet

Brut, Extra/Extra Brut or Brut Zero,. Brut Sauvage, Ultra Brut: This wine is very dry and contains between O - 6 grams/litre of sugar.

Brut: This wine is dry and contains less than 15 grams/litre of sugar.

Extra dry: This wine is self explanatory, and contains between 12 - 20 grams/litre of sugar.

Sec: This wine is dry and contains between 17 - 35 grams/litre of sugar.

Demi-Sec: This wine is medium-dry and contains between 33 - 50 grams/litre of sugar.

Doux: This wine is sweet and rich and contains more than 50 grams/litre of sugar

If you want to get a "great" Champagne, go for a Brut. Extra-dry is less dry than Brut. Sec is sweet, and Demi Sec is even sweeter.

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Serving Champagne

Do not over-chill champagne. Its harmony of flavours disappears in an ice-box. The ideal temperature is between 44"F (6"C) (the average for a domestic fridge) and 50"F (10"C)- the higher temperature for a finer or older wine. Cooling is best achieved by an hour in a refrigerator or about 20 minutes (depending on its initial temperature) in a bucket of ice and water. Ice without water is ineffectual. If the bottle is particularly warm to start with, put it upside down in the bucket (to cool the neck) for the first few minutes.

Open the bottle with care, first untwisting the wire ring (normally hidden in the neck-foil) anti-clockwise, then keep firm control of the cork while easing it out. A stiff cork can usually be persuaded with two thumbs; a very stiff one with a pair of pliers. But in most cases a firm twist of the bottle will start the cork moving. Keep control of the cork as it emerges, allowing the first gas to escape with a sigh, and have a glass ready to catch any foam that follows.

Pour champagne slowly, to Preserve the bubbles, into tall glasses in which their continued climbing can be admired. Choose tall narrow or tulip-shaped glasses and fill them two-thirds full - the empty third is space for your nose to enjoy the heady smell.

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Storage

Champagne is a delicate and luxurious artefact, made with extreme care. It is more resistant to rough handling and poor storage than most wines, but it will still suffer if it is exposed to excess heat or prolonged light. Like all wines of quality it should be kept as far as possible in cool and darkness: cellar conditions. It should also, like all wines, be kept horizontal (or upside down)- that is with the wine in contact with the cork. The results of heat, light or a dry cork are the chance of oxidization: a flat, faded flavour and a loss of sparkle. To avoid the risk, never buy a bottle of Champagne that has been standing on a shelf in a shop - and especially one that has been in sunlight, or under strip-lights, or in the window. Always ask for one straight from storage in its case.

At home, keep champagne in the coolest available place not subject to freezing (or damp, which will spoil the label). To enjoy its flavour to the utmost, buy ahead of your needs. Both non-vintage and vintage champagnes deepen in flavour with good storage for at least a year.

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Label

Champagne is an Appellation d'Origine Controlee wine in its own right. It is therefore not required to carry this on the label, which is thus brief and uncomplicated.
It consists simply of the maker's name and address (a town such as Reims, Epemay or Ay) in the region; the name of the particular cuvee in the bottle; a vintage date if one is applicable; a single term indicating whether the wine is extremely dry, dry, medium sweet or sweet and the contents measured in centilitres. Most makers give their non-vintage cuvees a brand name, by which their shippers and regular customers know them.

Vintage wines are commonly known simply by the maker's name and the vintage date. A third category, the cuvees de prestige, brings in another range of brand names.
Wines which are made of white grapes only are labelled Blanc de Blancs. The term Cremant means a wine that is produced with slightly less pressure and smaller bubbles, thus giving a "creamier" effect. The still wine of the Champagne region, on which the methode champenoise has not been employed, may not be called Champagne, but carries its own Appellation Controlee: Coteaux Champenois.

Brut is the traditional term for the driest champagne. In practice Extra Dry Champagnes are indistinguishable in dryness from Brut, but Sec (literally 'dry') means slightly sweet and Demi-Sec means distinctly sweet. The sweetest, designed for drinking with desserts, are labelled Doux or Riche.

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Dom Pérignon

Most Champagne houses make a range of Champagnes, just like most wineries make a range of wines.

Dom Pérignon was the legendary Benedictine monk that supposedly invented Champagne, "seeing stars". His tomb was in the Abbey of Hautvillers. Moët et Chandon bought their lands and vineyards in 1794.

Dom Pérignon was launched in 1921 by Moët et Chandon as their "top of the line" - in this regard it is similar to Laurent-Perrier's "Grand Siecle", Roederer's "Cristal", and Taittinger's "Comtes de Champagne". It is the very best Champagne that their company puts out.

Dom Pérignon is a "single vineyard" wine. It is only made from grapes made in that one vineyard, and it is only made in certain years when the harvest is really good. It is renowned for its beautiful flavor, delicious finish, longevity, and quality.

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