Hungary
Hungary Wine Regions Designed and
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Hungary Wine History The royal crown of Hungary, St Stephen's crown is more than 800 years old - and is still part of the Hungarian coat of arms. (Nobody knows how the cross on top got bent but bent it remains, as you can see in the National Museum in Budapest.) Hungarian winemaking, however, is over 1000 years old. Hungary is a small country at the very heart of Europe and with a strong national character, an intrinsic individuality which is well reflected in her wines. Some have been exported and enjoyed across the civilised world for hundreds of years. Twenty different wine regions in Hungary make and market wines for today's tastes, although not all are represented everywhere. This tells you about twelve regions whose wines you are most likely to find in British shops - and guides you on how to pronounce the Hungarian names you may find on their labels. Many of the grape varieties which are grown now in Hungary you will recognise immediately as international favourites. Hungary has many of its own grape varieties, however, like Ezejo (ezzer- yoh) and sometimes its own names for international varieties, like Sziirkebadt (soorker- borrot) for Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio. When you enjoy a Hungarian wine, you enjoy one of the great names in the
world canons of wine production - and good taste.
UP BALATONFURED - CS0PAK This region covers the eastern half of the northshore of Lake Balaton and, at one time, the town of Balatonfiired was a major spa and cultural centre. The vineyards of this region, on the south-facing lower slopes of the Bakony Hills, are largely planted - perhaps three quarters - with Olaszrizling grapes. History suggests the region was a health resort and vineyard area even in
Roman times, although perhaps not then possessing some 4000 acres under vine as
it does today. Csopaki Olaszrizling is popular all over Hungary. Sauvignon
Blanc, Rizlingszilv~ni and Muskot~ly varieties are also planted. Despite the
dominance of Olaszrizling, however, the soil of different vineyards can provide
wines varying widely in taste. UP Mor Region Mor, lying west of the capital Budapest, is the second Hungarian wine region to boast an indigenous grape almost totally identified with it - this time, the Ezerjo, which means 'a thousand good things'. Today other international varieties have taken over much of the vineyard area
where once the Ezerjo flourished, varieties like Chardonnay, Tramini,
Olaszrizling and Rizlingszilvani. One can still buy Ezejo but it may be hard to
find.Another indigenous Hungarian grape, the Leanyka, is also quite widely
planted. All of these grapes produce the remarkable white wines for which
Hungary is especially noted.
UP ETYEK Region One of Hungary's youngest wine regions and centred on the village of Etyek, its vineyards on the mountain slopes south west of Budapest were identified more than a century ago by Jozsef Torley (who was trained in France at Rheims) as ideal to provide the grapes for production of sparkling wine by the traditional method in the huge cellars of Budafok on the outskirts of the capital. Since the beginning of the 1980s, however, vineyards have been re- orientated
to the production of quality still wines. The grapes chosen have largely been
Chardonnay but also Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc. Today some
vineyards are in small estates under private ownership, where
winemaker-proprietors take a personal interest in the quality of their wines.
UP SOPRON Region In the far north western corner of Hungary, on the foothills of the Alps, lies the Sopron region. Through here once passed the Romans''amber road' and for centuries the city of Sopron itself enjoyed thriving trade not least in wine. Indeed, until the 18th century Sopron claimed to be the largest wine trading centre in central Europe. The soft red wines of the Kekfrankos grape dominate the substantial
production in the region but there are some Leanyka, Tramini and Veltelini
grapes for white wines as well.
UP EGER Region The south-facing Eger vineyard slopes lie between two mountain ranges in north eastern Hungary, popular with skiers. The town of Eger, still one of the most beautiful in the country, is noted in history for withstanding a heavy siege by the Turks in 1552 - when legends became rife about Bull's Blood, the region's most famous wine. Called in Hungarian Bikav~r (bik-of-air), Bull's Blood is a smooth red wine from a blend of grapes, including Kekfrankos (cake-fronkush), Cabernet Sauvignon, Medoc Noir, Blue Oporto, Merlot and Kadarka (cod~rka). Superb red wines are made from individual varieties, particularly the Merlot
and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, and there are interesting blends (like
Merlot/Kekfrankos). UP TOKAJ Region The full name of this most easterly region is Tokajhegyalja (tuck-oy- hed-yol-ya) but its world famous wines are known simply by the township of Tokaj. The adjective TOKAJI so prominent on every label seems like a brand name - but of course it is not. Best known of Tokaj's unique wines is the sweet Aszu (orss-oo) style, made with added juice from carefully selected late gathered grapes affected during long warm autumns in the shelter of the Carpathian Mountains by 'noble rot' - which shrivels the fruit and concentrates its sugar. Graded as 3, 4, 5 and sometimes 6 puttonyos (put-on-yush), Aszu wines show this indication of the number of extra sweetness measures added. The lesser known Szamorodni (sanna-rodney) and Furmint (foor-mint) styles can
also be found in some British shops.
UP MATRAALJA Region In northern Hungary west of Eger, the vine-covered slopes of the Matra foothills favour white wines in the districts like Gyongyos (join-josh), its chief town. Many were planted with new vines in the 136Os and 1370s, often with market favourites like Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc and traditional Hungarian varieties like Harslevelu (try harsh-level-you ... but it's easier to say Linden Leaf!) or Leanyka. You may find European and international varietals, too, either as individuals
or as blends in light white wines: Olaszrizling (Italian Riesling),Tramini
(Traminer), Rizlingszilvani (Riesling /Silvaner), Muskotaly (Muscat) and
Veltelini(Griiner Veltliner). UP Villany- Siklos Region Most southerly of Hungary's great wine regions, its full name is Villany- Siklos (shick-losh). The Romans were growing wine here in the time of the Emperor Augustus, 2000 years ago, when today's province of Southern Danubia was part of the imperial Roman province of Pannonia. The Villiny vineyards at the eastern end of the region are especially noted for their soft red wines favourites like Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon or Hungarian varieties like KCK frankos or Blue Oporto, single style wines or blends. Some very delicate ros~ wines are also made. In the larger Siklos portion of the region, white wines are much more widely
produced. You may find a fragrant Chardonnay or Olaszrizling or a spicy Tramini,
as well as a full-bodied Linden Leaf.
UP SZEKSZARD Region On the hills west of the Danube in southern Hungary the Szekszard vineyards have been noted for their wines since Roman times and for red wines since the fifteenth century. One of its best known today - though not easy to find in Britain - is the aromatic Ovoros (of-ur- ush), which means simply 'old red wine', for which a principal grape is the Kekfrankos. Besides the Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes now in universal demand, the Hungarian native Kadarka variety is also grown. With so many of the key grapes readily available, you will not be surprised to find also a Szeksdrdi Bikaver. Among white wines you may find a number of Rizling styles - Olaszrizling,
Banati Rizling and Rizlingszilvani.
UP MECSEK Region Vineyards here stretch for more than fifty miles over warm slopes around the historic city of Pecs; visitors may even think it true that there are a million vines to be seen, and Pecs has long been noted for one of Hungary's best Olaszrizling wines. Today some very fine Chardonnay wines are made in the Mecsek region, as well
as Rizlingszilvani. To an extent the traditional Hungarian Furmint and Cirfandli
(seer-fondly) grapes are giving way to the better known international varieties
but they are often still used to add a special distinction in wine blending.
UP SOUTH BALATON Region Del-Balaton, to give its Hungarian name, is one of the country's newest wine regions and its vineyards are found along the southerly shore of Hungary's inland sea Lake Balaton from Balatonmariafiirdo in the west almost to Siofok (shee-o-fok) in the east. Most of the grapes are those international favourites such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Traminer, Semillon, Pinot Noir, Kiralyleanyka (kee-rye-lee-arn-ka), Leanyka, Olaszrizling and Muskotaly (moosh-ko-tie). The last makes delicious wine also called Muscat Ottonel. Many wines are likely to show 'Balaton' or 'Lake Balaton' on the label or the name of the Balatonboglar district. This district also produces a noted sparkling wine, using Chasselas grapes.
UP BADACSONY Region On the northerly shores of Lake Balaton lie two of Hungary's great white wine areas, of which the western region is Badacsony - notable for having its own indigenous grape, the Keknyelu (cake-ni- yellu). The richness of Badacsony wines is said to result from the southern. sunshine reflected from the lake waters. In Britain you are more likely to find an Olaszrizling or a Pinot Gris
(Szurkebarat) from Badacsony, and maybe a flowery Traminer. Just possibly, a
Zoldszilvani (zalt-sil-varny) or Silvaner may rum up, or even a Veltelini or
Muskotaly. All are very fine white wines and, although from a label apparently
the same, each producer tries to give his wine a special identity.
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