 North/Northwest Region Emilia Romagna Liguria Lombardia Piemonte Valle D'Aosta
North/Northwest Wineries
Marchesi Alfieri Wine Designed and maintained by FLB Enterprises  |
Italy
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North/Northwest Region Emilia Romagna Liguria Lombardia Piemonte Valle D'Aosta
North/Northwest Wineries
Marchesi Alfieri Wine Designed and maintained by FLB Enterprises |
|
EMILIA ROMAGNA Regional capital: Bologna. Provinces: Bologna, Ferrara, Forli, Modena. Parma, Piacenza. Ravenna, Reggio Emilia. Emilia-Romagna ranks 6th among the regions in size (22.124 square kilometres) and 8th in population (3.940.000) Vineyards cover 76,000 hectares (5th) of which registered DOC plots total 26.700 hectares (4th). Annual wine production of 7.600,000 hectolitres (4th) includes 9% or 700,000 hectolitres DOC or DOCG (5th). of which nearly 75% is red.
WINESDOCG AREA OTHER WINES OF NOTE1 ALBANA DI ROMAGNA W-Dr/Sw. also Sp as Albana di Romagna DOC DOC AREAS RED-DRY Alfeo WHITE-DRY Alionza OTHERS Labrusca. P-Sp HISTORYEmilia-Romagna's wines might be considered northern Italy's odd lots, different on the whole from the neighbours', often facile in style, but nearly always refreshingly individualistic. As the hyphenated name reveals, the region consists of two distinct sectors which coincide more or less at the capital of Bologna. To the west lies Emilia with its prosperous small cities strung like jewels along the ancient Emilian Way - Modena, Reggio, Parma, Fidenza, Fiorenzuola, as far as Piacenza.The premier wine here is Lambrusco, in frothy shades of purple to pink, made from grapes grown on high trellised vines mainly in the flatlands south of the Po. Lambrusco is produced at the rate of about 50 million bottles a year in the four DOC zones around Modena and Reggio, though few consumers abroad have tasted these wines in their authentic style. Most Lambrusco shipped away is amabile or sweet and sold without an appellation, while most of what is drunk at home is dutifully dry and more often than not DOC. Though there are historical precedents for both types, the dry is considered the unparalleled match for the rich regional cooking. Even in Emilia's hills, along the Apennine range to the south, the wines are often frizzante, made from Malvasia, Trebbiano and Ortrugo into easy, fun-loving whites, or from Barbera and Bonarda into zesty reds of more flavour intensity than Lambrusco. But there is a definite trend in the DOC zones of Colli Piacentini, Colli Bolognesi and Colli di Parma to make still and somewhat serious wines from such varieties as Sauvignon, Chardonnay, the Pinots, Barbera, Cabernet and Merlot. Natural conditions favour wines of depth and finesse but markets seem to favour the lightweights. East of Bologna lies Romagna, decidedly diverse from Emilia but equally prolific. The plains of the Po basin between Ferrarand Ravenna are noted for fruit, vegetables and ultra-high-yield vines, most of which are sources of blending wines. The hills south of Imola, Faenza, Forli, Cesena and Rimini are known for DOC wines, primarily from the native Albana, Sangiovese and Trebbiano. Albana di Romagna, which emerged in 1987 as Italy's first DOCG white wine, is now most often dry and still with a distinctive almondy undertone and, occasionally, some complexity. Albana's best expression seems to be as a richly sweet passito from partly dried grapes. The traditional semisweet and bubbly versions are usually drunk up near home. Trebbiano (Romagna's is distinct from other vines of the same name) is almost always light and fresh, whether still or bubbly, with a fragility that makes it best in its youth. The local favourite is Sangiovese, usually a medium bodied red with a certain charm in its straightforward fruity flavour that ends in a bitter bite. Now and then, from certain plots in its superiore zone, it becomes a wine of size and depth with the capacity to age gracefully as riserva. In Romagna, too, there are trends toward Sauvignon, Chardonnay, the Pinots
and Cabernet. But leading producers devote efforts to developing superior
strains of Sangiovese and Albana, while building interest in such rare local
wines as the DOC white Pagadebit and red Cagnina and Bosco Eliceo Fortana.
UP LIGURIA Regional capital: Genoa (Geneva) Provinces: Geneva, Imperia. La Spezia, Savona. Liguria ranks 18th among the regions in size (5.416 square kilometres) and Ilth in population (1.770.000). Vineyards cover 6,000 hectares (19th) of which registered DOC plots total 504 hectares (18th). Annual wine production of 280,000 hectolitres (19th) includes 5% or 13.000 hectolitres DOC (17th), of which about 75% is white.
WINESDOC AREAS OTHER WINES OF NOTE1 CINOUETERRE W-Dr. also Sciacchetra W-Sw. also Ft, Ag-l RED-DRY Barbera WHITE-DRY Albachiara
HISTORYThe rugged terrain of this slender seaside region makes grape growing a challenge, meaning that vineyards are scattered and limited. Still some of the wines, even if hard to get to, are well worth the search. The legend among them is Cinqueterre, a white wine made around the "five lands" - fishing villages nestled in the cliffs along the coast north of La Spezia. Vines there have been planted since antiquity on scarcely accessible terraces close enough to the Ligurian Sea to catch the spray from breaking waves.Most Cinqueterre is dry, though the sweet and rare Sciacchetra is often preferred by those in the know. Near La Spezia, and the border of Tuscany, is the recent DOC zone of Colli di Luni where red and white wines, notably Vermentino, show promise. Few other wines of the Riviera Levante, the coast to the southeast of Genoa, are known beyond their localities. Most of Liguria's limited commercial wine produc tion is concentrated along the Ponente coast to the southwest. Until recently, Rossese di Dolceacqua, whose soft fruit and full flavour make it one of most attractive of northern Italian reds, was the only classified wine. But now the Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC zone covers the other classic wines of the area, the white Pigato and Vermentino and the red Ormeasco (a local Dolcetto) and Rossese from Albenga. Pigato is a white of undeniable class whose prospects seem limited only by lack of vineyard space. Within the large DOC zone are areas with bspecial subdenominations for certain wines: Albenga and Finale for Pigato, Rossese and Vermentino and Riviera dei Fiori for all types. Most other wines of Liguria are curiosities, local whites and reds that are
usually at their best young and close to home. Such rarities as Buzzeto and
Granaccia, Coronata and Lumassina are uniquely and proudly Ligurian.
UP LOMBARDIA Regional capital: Milan (Milano). Provinces: Bergamo, Brescia, Come, Cremona, Mantova. Milano, Pavia, Sondrio. Varese. Lombardy ranks 4th among the regions in size (23.856 square kilometres) and Ist in population(8.882,000). Vineyards cover 30.000 hectares (12th) of which registered DOC plots total 16,700 hectares (8th). Annual wine production of 1.700.000 hectolitres (12th) includes 26% or 450.000 hectolitres DOC (7th), of which there is slightly more red than white.
WINESDOC AREAS1 BOTTICINO R-Dr OTHER WINES OF NOTE RED-DRY Barbacarlo, Fz WHITE-DRY Aurito OTHERS Berlucchi Cuvee Imperiale.
HISTORYAmong Lombardy's numerous industries wine does not rank high on the list. The citizens of this most populous and well-to-do region seem increasingly disposed toward industrialised versions of agriculture rather than to the more taxing and less profitable hand crafting of fine wines. Also, in a territory that is about half fertile plains and more than a third mountains and lakes, those gentle hills of the sort suited to vines do not abound. Still, the alpine climate tempered by the lakes of Garda, Iseo, Come and Maggiore in the north and the Apennines which influence the weather to the south have created some highly favourable spots for vines. And, even though output is much less than that of neighbouring Veneto, Emilia-Romagna and Piedmont, Lombardy does make some fine wine, a too-often neglected share of which is truly excellent. Just why Lombardians - the eclectic Milanese, in particular - downplay them is hard to explain, but regional bottlings are almost invariably upstaged by the reds of Tuscany and Piedmont and the whites of the Tre Venezie. Most of the 6 million bottles of Nebbiolo reds produced annually in the alpine Valtellina are spirited away by the neighbouring Swiss before Italians have a chance at them. The main exception seems to be the metodo classico sparkling wines of Franciacorta in the lake district, a zone whose spumante is decidedly in vogue.Lombardy's most productive zone, the Oltrepo Pavese, also ranks as the most abused. Much of its still red and white wines are taken away in bulk or anonymous bottles to restaurants in Milan, Genoa and other cities. Although the Oltrepo is Italy's leading source of Pinot Nero, growers let much of it slip away to Piedmontese and other manufacturers of brut spumante, who issue the wines with little regard for origins. Only about 15 percent of the more than 100 million litres produced annually in the Oltrepb is sold as DOC - and then often at bargain prices. Unjustifiably, for some very good wines are made there, not only Pinots, but robust Barbera, Bonarda and Oltrepi, Pavese Rosso, plus fruity white Rieslings and Moscatos. A revival in local spumantehas been heralded with the trademark of Classese for metodo classico of notable quality. The Valtellina earns more respect abroad. Bottles of the four Superiore appellations - Grumello, Inferno, Sassella and Valgella, each of which represents a small sub district - can be found in the United States and United Kingdom, along with a bit of the rich and mellow Sfursat or Sforzato. The Valtellina reds are among the most austere of Nebbiolos, due to the coolness of the terraced mountain vineyards, so steep in places that grapes are hauled in with baskets on cables. But the apparent lightness is deceptive, for some have the strength and stamina to improve for well over a decade. Good wines are made in the provinces of Bergamo, Mantova and even Milano, but the prize for quality and variety goes to Brescia, which boasts 7 of the region's 13 DOCs: Botticino, Capriano del Colle, Cellatica, Franciacorta, Lugana, Riviera del Garda Bresciano and San Martino della Battaglia. From the shores of Lake Garda come Lugana (which can compare with fine Soave Classico) and the distinctive rosso and chiaretto of Riviera del Garda that can match the best of Valpolicella and Bardolino. The sturdy reds of Botticino and Cellatica and the smooth Tocai of San Martino have admirers as well. But by all odds the most admired Lombardian wines of the moment are the spumanti of Franciacorte. The zone has a good red from Cabernet, Barbera and Nebbiolo and a good still white from Pinot Bianco and Chardonnay. But the reputation has been built on the outstanding bottle-fermented sparkling wines fashioned by small estates. Also in the area is Italy's largest producer of metodo classico Guide Berlucchi, though the cuvees for nearly 5 million bottles a year include wines from Trentino-Alto Adige, Oltrepi, and Piedmont along with the local. In all, Franciacorta produces about a third of Italy's classical spumante, though most of that is not DOC. UP PIEMONTE
HISTORYPiedmont is esteemed above all for its red wines, the regal Barolo and Barbaresco in the forefront. But the best known of the region's wines is the white, sweet, bubbly and widely adored Asti Spumante.Practically all of Piedmont's classified wines derive from native vines. Besides the noble Nebbiolo-source of Barolo, Barbaresco and Gattinara, which are all DOCG- Barbera ranks as the most popular vine for reds and Dolcetto is admired for its soft, full-flavoured wines. Freisa, Grignolino, Brachetto and a host of other varieties round out the honour roll of red wines. Still, among DOC wines at least, whites are equally prominent. First comes Moscato d'Asti, the base of Asti Spumante. With an output surpassing 50 million litres annually, it ranks second in volume to Chianti among Italy's classified wines. An established star among dry whites is Gavi from the native Cortese grape. Italy's westernmost region with borders on Switzerland and France, Piedmont is hemmed in by Alps and Apennines, which explain why its name means "foot of the mountain." Though it ranks only seventh among the regions in total production, in every other way Piedmont is a giant of wine. It has the most DOC- DOCG zones with 38 (taking in 43 distinct types of wine) and the most vineyards dedicated to classified production. For craftsmanship, respect for tradition and devotion to native vines in their historical habitat, the Piedmontese have no rivals in Italy. The region's climate is rigid by Italian standards, with distinct changes of season. Winters are cold with plenty of snow; summers are usually warm and dry; spring and autumn are usually cool with fog normal at harvest time. Most vineyards are located in two major areas; the Langhe and Monferrato hills which are connected to the Apennines in the southeast and the foothills of the Alps to the north between Lake Maggiore and Valle d'Aosta. The focal point of premium production is the town of Alba on the Tanaro River. In the nearby Langhe hills Barolo (king of wines and wine of kings) is produced at the rate of about 6 million bottles a year and Barbaresco, which many experts rate its equal, rarely reaches half that. Both come from Nebbiolo, which gives them the powerful structure that makes them capable of improv ing for many years from fine vintages such as '90,'89, '88,'86,'85, '82,'79,'78,and'71. The traditional Barolo and Barbaresco were admired almost as cult wines, though often criticised as too elab- orate for modern palates. But the combination of a series of fine vintages and newly studied techniques among wine makers, many of them young, seems to be chang ing the old-fashioned image. Barolo and Barbaresco have retained their ample dimensions while becoming better balanced and more approachable than before. The Alba area is renowned for its smooth, supple Dolcetto under several appellations, and for first-rate Nebbiolo and white Ameis from the Roero hills, as well as table wines of class sometimes under the name Langhe. But the most surprising progress in both the Alba and Asti areas has been made with the ubiquitous Barbera, which after years of being considered common has rapidly become chic. Certain aged Barberas from choice plots around Asti and Albahave emerged to stand comparison with fine Nebbiolo reds. Piedmontese drink more red wine than white, and about half of the red is Barbera, which can also be attractive in youthfully fruity and bubbly versions. Three other red wines that have recovered after decades of decline are the pale Grignolino, the often frizzante Freisa and the sweet and bubbly Brachetto from Acqui. In the other major area of Nebbiolo production, the hills to the north, more modern styles are emerging in such reds as Ghemme, Carema, Lessona, Sizzano, Fara and the long vaunted Gattinara, which has become DOCG. Piedmont ranks with Italy's leading producers of sparkling wines. Foremost among them is Asti Spumante, the world's most popular sweet sparkling wine. The market for this fragrant white is actually larger abroad than in Italy. In fact, worldwide demand is so great that a shortage of Moscato di Canelli grapes has developed. The region is also a major producer of dry sparkling wines by both the classical and charmat methods, though only rarely do the Pinot and Chardonnay grapes originate in the region. Most come from the neighbouring Oltrepo Pavese in Lombardy or from Trentino Alto-Adige. Among still whites, Gavi has emerged as one of Italy's most coveted, with a
crisp, lively style. Admirers consider it one of the best with seafood. Ameis
continues to gain ground in Roero, where the light, zesty Favorita is also
beginning to emerge. Some predict a revival of the ancient white Erbaluce di
Caluso from near Turin. Although Piedmontese growers were among the first to
experiment with such outside varieties as Cabernet and the Pinots early in the
19th century, these vines largely faded from favour. Just recently, though,
Cabernet Sauvignon, the Pinots and especially Chardonnay have shown unusual
promise as table wines. But admirers have noted that, despite their vines'
universal status, the wines bear a stamp that is unmistakably Piedmontese.
UP VALLE D'AOSTA Regional capital and single province: Aosta. Valle d'aosta is the smallest of Italy's 20 regions in size (3.262 square kilometres) and population (113.000). Vineyards cover 925 hectares (20th) of which registered DOC plots total 66 hectares (20th). Annual wine production of 39.000 hectolitres (20th) includes 3.5% or 2.400 hectolitres DOC (19th), of which about two-thirds is red.
WINESDOC AREA1 VALLE D'AOSTA OR VALLE D'AOSTE 15 types: Arnad Montjovet R-Dr, Sup Ag-2; Bianco or Blanc W- Dr, also Fz; Blanc de Merger et de La Salle W-dr, also Fz; Chambave Moscato or Muscat W-Dr, also Passito or Fletri W-Sw, Ag-2; Chambave Rosso or Rouge R-Dr; Donnaz or Donnas R-Dr, Ag-2; .Enfer d Arvier R-Dr; Gamay R-Dr; Muller Thurgau W-Dr; Nus Pinot Grigio or Pinot Gris W-Dr, also Passito or Fletri W-Sw, Ag-2; Nus Rosso or Rouge R-Dr; Pinot Nero or Pinot Noir R-Dr, also W-Dr; Rosato or Rose P-Dr. also Fz; Rosso or RougeR-Dr, also Fz; Torrette R- Dr RED-DRY Barnet WHITE-DRY Blane de Cossan OTHERS Malvoisie de Cossan. W-Sv HISTORYThis tiniest of regions, tucked into Italy's mountainous northwest corner against the borders of Switzerland and France, has precious little space for vines on its stony alpine terraces. But the minuscule amounts of wine it does produce are distinct from anything else in Italy or its foreign neighbours.A regionwide DOC known as Valle d'hosta or Valle d'Aoste covers 15 types of wine whose names are given in Italian and French, the official second language. These include the long-standing DOCs of Donnaz and Enfer d'hrvier, as well as the white wines of Merger and La Salle, whose vineyards in the shadow of Mont Blanc are reputed to be the highest in Europe. But whether Valle d'hosta's wines are classified or not, they could never be
more than curios that are most compelling when drunk on the spot. Grape
varieties range from Piedmontese (Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Moscato) to French (the
Pinots, Gamay), to the teutonic Muller Thurgau called in for alpine duty. But
the most intriguing wines of Valle d'Aosta stem from varieties it calls its own.
These include the Petit Rouge of Enfer d'Arvier and Torrette, the Blanc de
Valdigne of Merger and La Salle, the Petite Arvine of the white Vin du Conseil,
the Vien for the red wine of Nus and the Malvoisie (appar- enpy a mutation of
Pinot Gris) for rare dessert white of Nus.
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