Italy
![]() Northeast Region Veneto Friuli-Venezia Giulia Trentino-Alto adige
Northeastern Wineries
(Turin, Friuli, Asti, etc.)Arione Wine & Asti Designed and maintained by FLB Enterprises |
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VENETO This tiniest of regions, tucked into Italy's mountainous northwest corner against the borders of Switzerland and France, has precious little space for vines on its stony alpine terraces. But the minuscule amounts of wine it does produce are distinct from anything else in Italy or its foreign neighbours. A regionwide DOC known as Valle d'hosta or Vallee d'Aoste covers 15 types of wine whose names are given in Italian and French, the official second language. These include the long-standing DOCs of Donnaz and Enfer d'hrvier, as well as the white wines of Merger and La Salle, whose vineyards in the shadow of Mont Blanc are reputed to be the highest in Europe. But whether Valle d'hosta's wines are classified or not, they could never be more than curies that are most compelling when drunk on the spot. Grape varieties range from Piedmontese (Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Moscato) to French (the Pinots, Ga y), to the teutonic Muller Thurgau called in for alpine duty. But the most intri- guing wines of Valle d'Aosta stem from varieties it calls its own. These include the Petit Rouge of Enfer d'Arvier and Torrette, the Blanc de Valdigne of Merger and La Salle, the Petite Arvine of the white Vin du Conseil, the Vien for the red wine of Nus and the Malvoisie (appar- ently a mutatoinof Pinot Gris) for rare dessert white of Nus.
WINESDOC AREAS OTHER WINES OF NOTE1 BARDOLINO R-Dr also NoveIlo Sup Ag-l; Chiaretra P-Dr, alro Sp 2 BIANCO DICUSTOZA W- Dr,alsoSp 3 BREGANLE 7 types: B anco W- Dr; Cabernet R-Dr. Pinot Bianco W- Dr. Pinot Grigio W-Dr. P not Nero R- Dr. Rosso R-Dr. Vespaiolo W-Dr 4 COLLIBERICI I typqi: Cabernet R- Dr, Rs Ag-3. Garganega,W-Dr; Meriof. R-Dr; P not Bianco WDr. Sauv gnon W Or; Taiai gianco W-Dr. Toca Rosso R-Dr Sup Ag-l; Meriot R-Dr. Sup Ag-l. Moscato W-Sw-Fp; Pinot 5 COLLIEUGANEI ! types: Bianco W-Dr. also Sw. Sp. bernet R-Dr. Bianco W-Dr; Rosso R-Dr. also Sw, Sp. Tocai Italico 6 GAMBELLARA3types: BiancoW- Dr. Reciotodi W-Sw. also Sp; Vin Santo di Gambellara W-Sw~g-2 7 LESSINIDURELLO W-Dr, also Sp 8 LISON-PRAMAGGIORE 12 types: Cabernd R-Dr. also Sp. Rs Ag-3; Cabernet Franc R-Dr, also Sp. Rs Ag-3. Cabernet Sauvignon R-Dr. also Sp, Rs Ag 3; Chardonnay W- Dr. alsp Sp. Meiiot R-Dr. also Sp. Rs Ag-2. Ag-2; Pinot Bianco W-Dr, also Sp. Pinot Grigio W-Dr, also Sp.Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso i-Dr; Riesling Itaiico W-Dr also Sp;Sauvignon W-Dr. also Sp. Tocai Itdlico W-DI, also Sp. Verduzzo W-Dr. also Sp. 9 MON1tLLO E COLLIASOLPIN 3 tYpei Cabernet R-Or. iup ~(II; 1 Merlot R-Dr. Sup Ag-2. Prosecco W-Dr/Sw-Fz/Sp 10 PIAVE 8 types: Cabernet R-Dr. Rs Ag-3. Merlot R-Dr, vecchio Ag-2. Pinot Bianco W-Dr. Pinot Grigio W- Dr. Pinot Nero R-Dr. Rs Ag-2. Raboso R-Dr. Tocai Ita ico W-Dr. Verdurro W-Dr 11 PROSECCO DI CONEGLIANO- VALDOBBIADENE W-DriSw-FzlSp; Superiore di Cartirre W-Dr/Sw- Fz/Sp 12 SOAVE W-Dr, also Sp; Recioto d Seave W-Sw, also Sp.
Ft RED-DRY Alzero WH ITE-DRY Bianco San Pietro OTHERS Amabile del Cere, W-Sw
HISTORYVenice's region is Italy's leader in the production and commerce of classified wine. A major share of the DOC (which represents about 225 million bottles a year) consists of the Verona trio of Seave, Bardolino and Valpolicella. But since DOC represents less than a fifth of the region's total, the Veneto also figures as a major producer and exporter of unclassified table wines, often of moderate price.There are three general areas of premium production: the western province of Verona in the hills between Lake Garda and the town of Soave; the central hills in the provinces of Vicenza, Padova and Treviso; the eastern plains of the Piave and Tagliamento river basins along the Adriatic coast northeast of Venice.Verona's classic wines are bona fide natives. Soave,fromGarganega and Trebbiano di Soave, is usually dry and still, though spumante and sweet Recioto versions are also prescribed. Third after Chianti and Asti Spumante in volume among classified wines (with some 50 million litres a year), Soave has long been Italy's most popular DOC wine abroad. Valpolicella, made from a blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara, is very high in volume among DOCs with about 35 million litres. Valpolicella is noted as a full and fruity red to drink relatively young, though grapes from its vineyards in the hills north of Verona can lso be partly dried and made into the richly dry marone della Valpolicella or the opulently sweet. Recioto della Valpolicella. Amarone, amply structured and long on the palate, ranks with Italy's most authoriative red wines. Bardolino, from the same basic grapes as Valpolicella, is enviably easy o drink, whether in the light red or dark pink chiavetto version. Recent popularity is due largely to its emergence as Italy's first DOC novello. This DOC on the shores of Lake Garda also ranks high on the list of volume with about 20 million litres a year. Another Veronese DOC of note is Bianco di Custoza, strikingly similar to Soave. A recent DOC made between Vcrona and Vicenza is Lessini Durello, a steely dry white, usually sparkling, that seems destined for wider recognition. A trend in the Verona area is to make alternative wines of distinction. Some innovative reds are galmng prominence, notably the so-called ripasso types made from the base of Valpolicella refermented with the pomace of Amarone. The Veneto's central hills take in several DOC zones. Near Vicenza are Gambellara, with whites similar to those of neighbouring Seave, and Colli Berici, where varietal wines from Tocai, the Pinots, Merlot and Cabernet prevail. Also in the province is Breganze, where Cabernet and whites from the Pinots and Chardonnay and the sweet Torcolato stand out. Near Padova are the Colli Euganei, whose sheer slopes render a range of varietals. Treviso's province takes in the hills northwest of Venice between the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene,notedforrhcpapularProsecco lightly sweet white, usually bubbly. A refined version is known as Cartizze. The adjacent Montello e Colli Asolani zone, Is noted for Prosecco, Cabernet and Merlot, as well as the renowned vine d tavoli Venegntzi della Casa. Producers of Prosecco, already well versed in sparkling wine, have been Increasing Pinot and Chardonnay spumanti, usually dry and made either by the tank fermentation or the classical method. The plains northeast of Venice take in the Piave DOC zone, where Merlot and
Cabernet dominate an expand- Ing range of trendy varietals, though the local red
Raboso and white Verduzzo still attract admirers. Lison-Pramaggiore (previously
noted for white Tocai, Cabernet and Merlot) now also has a full list of
varietals. In red wines, Merlot and Cabernet Franc have been the workhorse
varieties of the central and eastern Veneto for decades, often in light and easy
wines to drink young. But some producers have been blending the two,
increasingly with Cabernet Sauvignon, and ageing the wine in small barrels to
develop greater style and complexity. Throughout the region the recent emphasis
is on white wines. Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon and especially Chardonnay are gaining
ground.
UP FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA Regional capital: Trieste Provinces: Gorizia. Pordenone, Trieste, Udine. Friuli-Venezia Giulia ranks 17th among the regions in size (7.847 square kilometres) and 15th in population (1.220.000). Vineyards cover 21,000 hectares (15th) of which registered DOC plots total 12.300 hectares (9th). Annual wine production of 1.100.000 hectolitres (15th) includes 40% or 430.000 hectolitres DOC (8th). of which more than 60% is white
WINESDOC AREAS OTHER WINES OF NOTE1 AQUILEIA or AOUILEIA DEL FRIULI 14 types: Cabernet R-Dr; Cabernet Franc
R-Dr; Cabernet Sauvignon R-Dr; Chardonnay, W-Dr, also Sp; Merlot R-Dr; Pinot
Bianco W-Dr; Pinot Grigio W-Dr; Refosco R-Dr; Riesiing Renano W-Dr; Rosato P-Dr;
Sauvignon W-Dr; Tocai Friulano W-DI; Trami ner WDr; Verduzzo Friulano W-Dr RED-DRY Agreste WHITE-DRY Blanc des Rosis OTHERS Apiece. W-Sw
HISTORYThe compact region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, which borders on Austria, Slovenia and Croatia, is the realm of Italy's new-style white wine. Drawing from worthy native varieties and the noblest of the international array, Friulians have applied studied vineyard techniques and avant-garde oenology to the production of highly distinctive whites, as well as some eminently attractive reds.Friuli has two DOC zones of exceptional status in Collio Goriziano, or simply Collio, and Colli Orientali del Friuli, adjacent areas that follow the border of Slovenia from Gorizia northwest to Tarcento. A highly favourable environment is created on the terraced slopes, called ronchi, by the exchange of Adriatic and alpine currents. Carso is a unique zone in the hills above the seaport and regional capital of Trieste. The other four DOC zones cover low hills or plains, but quality there can also be convincing. Nearly all the wines included in the seven DOC categories are varietals. Usually about 40% of Friuli's total production is DOC, but whether or not wines are classified they tend to be reliable. Only the Grave del Friuli zone, which produces nearly 20 million litres a year to stand with the top ten DOCs in volume, is big by national standards. Friuli has built a glowing reputation in Italy and abroad for white wines. Tocai Friulano has been dominant, a fine variety, which, despite its name, seems to be a native of Friuli with no parental links to other wines known as Tokay or Tokaji. The local Malvasia, Ribolla and Verduzzo can be intriguing, as can such long-established imported varieties as Chardonnay, Sauvignon, the Pinots, Traminer and Riesling. The Friulan style in whites favours the exquisitely fresh and fruity, with delicate fragrance and flavour that expresses clear varietal character. Many producers consider their whites to be too pure and linear to benefit from wood ageing. The Friulian style has been on target for the national market, which seems to favour the flavours and names of pure varietals. There are exceptions to the rule, though, in certain white table wines which gain depth and complexity from blending, wood ageing and other artistic touches. Friulan reds were traditionally light and fruity, best to drink within two to five years of the harvest. This applies to the predominant Merlot and Cabernet Franc, as well as Pinot Nero and the prominent native variety of Refosco. But certain wine makers have heightened stucture and nuance by blending Cabernet, Merlot and other varieties and ageing the wine in small, new oak barrels. Friulians have shown an encouraging tendency to rediscover certain varieties that had been neglected and to revive them. Foremost among the legends is Picolit, a white that ranked as one of Europe's finest sweet wines around 1800 when it was favoured by the Hapsburgs. Despite low yields, Picolit has been coming back. So has Verduzzo, which makes exquisitely light dessert wines in the Colli Orientali. Ribolla Gialla, a native of Collio, has benefited from new methods that make it into a dry white of character. Among the reds are Refosco, which can be made either light and fruity or into a durable wine for ageing. Though rare and odd, Franconia and Tazzelenghe make distinctive reds, but perhaps the Schioppettino grape has the greatest quality potential. Sparkling wines represent a growing field, as wine makers bring not only choice Pinot and Chardonnay grapes into their cuvees but also Ribolla for refined spumante by the classical and charmat methods. UP TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE Regional capital: Trento. Provinces: Bolzano (Bozen), Trento. Trentino-Alto Adige ranks Ilth among the regions in size (13,620 square kilometres) and 16th in population (880.000). Vineyards cover 13.500 hectares (17th) of which registered DOC plots total 11,100 hectares (IOth). Annual wine production of 1.200.000 hectolitres (13th) includes 61% or 730,000 hectolitres DOC (4th). of which about 70% is red.
WINESDOC AREAS OTHER WINES OF NOTE1 ALTO ADIGE or SUDTIROLER 19 types: Cabernet R-Dr, Rs Ag-2; Chardonnay W-Dr;
Lagrein Dunkel or Scuro R-Dr, Rs Ag-l; Lagrein Kretzer or Rosato P-Dr; Malvasia
or Malvasier R-Dr; Merlot R-Dr, Rs Ag-l; Moscato Gialio or Goidenmuskateller
W-Sw; Moscato Rosa or Rosenmuskateller P-Sw; Muller Thurgau W-Dr; Pinot Bianco
or Weissburgunder W-Dr, also Sp; Pinto Grigio or Rulander W-Dr, also Sp; Pinot
Nero or Blauburgunder R-Dr, Rs Ag-l.also W-Dr-Sp; Riesling Italico or
Weischriesling W-Dr; Riesling Renano or Rheinriesling W-Dr; Sauvignon W- Dr;
Schiava or Vernatsch R-Dr; Spumante W-P-Dr-Sp; Sylvaner W-Dr; traminer Aromatico
or Gewurztraminer W-Dr. RED-DRY Castel Schwanburg WHITE-DRY Castel San Michele Bianco OTHERS Essenzia, W-Sw/Dr
HISTORYItaly's northernmost region with alpine borders on Austria and Switzerland is split into two distinct provinces. Trentino, around the city of Trento to the south, is historically Italian in language and culture. Alto Adige, around the city of Bolzano or Bozen to the north, is better known as Siidtirol to the prominent German-speaking population. The South Tyrol, historically part of Austria, is officially bilingual. Trentino-Alto Adige is walled in by the Rhaetian Alps and the Dolomites, so only about 15 percent of the land is cultivable. Much of that produces fruit and wine grapes. The difficulty of training vines over wooden pergolas on hillside terraces compels growers to empha- sise quality. More than 60% of production is DOC and some 35% of the wine is exported (both Italy's highest rates). Yet, though experts agree that the alpine climate favours grapes for perfumed white wines, the focus remains on reds, which account for more than two- thirds of the region's production.The dominant variety is Schiava or Vernatsch, source of lightweight reds that flow north prodigiously to German-speaking countries. The most highly regarded of these is St. Magdalener or Santa Maddalena, grown on the picturesque slopes overlooking Bolzano. The best Known is CALDARO or KALTERERSEE, produced from vines around the.pretty lake of that name at the rate of more than 20 million litres a year, to rate high among Italy's DOCs in volume. But the ranks of roseate ruby wines from Schiava extend through the South Tyrol along the Adige river into Trentino and the Veneto under the Valdadige appellation. Other reds can show greater class. Alto Adige's native Lagrein and Trentino's Teroldego stand with northern Italy's most distinguished vines, making wines of singu lar personality. Marzemino makes a fresh, lively red for casual sipping. Considerable space is devoted to Cabernet and Merlot, which occasionally reach impressive heights both alone and in blends. The region also produces some of Italy's finest rosé, perhaps the most impressive being Lagrein Kretzer. The sweet Moscato Rosa with its gracefully flowery aroma is a rare and prized dessert wine. The growing demand for white wine has influenced growers to plant more of the international premium varieties. The heights are favourable for aromatic whites: Gewiirztraminer, Sylvaner, Miiller Thurgau and white Moscato. But the quality of Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Grigio, Sauvignon and Riesling Renano from certain cellars can also stand with Italy's finest. Trentino's native Nosiola makes fine dry white and is also the base of Vine Santo, a rich dessert wine from the Valle dei Laghi. Production of the numerous varietal wines is centred in two large DOC zones: Trentino in the south and Alto Adige or Siidtiroler in the north. Valdadige applies to red and white wines of popular commercial standards produced between Merano and Verona. Several small DOC zones are noted for class. Valle d'Isarco and Terlano produce some exquisite whites in Alto Adige, and Santa Maddalena has a long-standing reputation for its refined light red. Teroldego, grown on the Rotaliano plain north of Trento, is an unusually attractive red when young, with capacity to age splen- didly from good vintages. Although the region's white wines are often considered light by international standards, some have an unexpected propensity to age. Pinot Bianco, Gewurztramlner, Riesling and Muller Thurgau have been known to remain fresh and vital for a decade or two. But the emphasis is on popularly priced Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco which can offer outstanding values. Ultimately, producers in both provinces have been making whites of greater
weight and complexity -- in particular from Chardonnay, Sauvignon and the Pinots
and also from Sylvaner, Riesling, Muller Thurgau and Gewurztraminer, whose name
derives from the South Tyrolean village of Tramin. A few are also working with
new techniques on red wines, notably in combinations of Cabernet and Merlot, but
also with Pinot Nero and the underrated Lagrein. They are gradually enhancing
the status of a region whose sterling record with DOC doesn't fully express its
extraordinary quality potential. Trentino, which boasts Italy's largest
production of Chardonnay, is a leader with sparkling wines by the classical
method, spumante that may qualify under the trademark of Trento Classico. Alto
Adige has also stepped up sparkling wine production. Despite the traditional
flow north, Trentino- Alto Adige's wines - whites especially - have been making
steady progress in Italy and, just recently, on more distant markets, such as
the United States and United Kingdom.
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