Romania is an ancient wine making land. Its name refers to Rome, that considered it the jewel in its vast Empire due to the bounty of its farms and vineyards. Centuries prior to Roman occupation and Phoenician trade Romania, or Dacia as the Romans knew it, had a well-established wine culture. To this day an almost countless number of wine regions survive.

The God of Wine   Location, Climate and Soil   Romania Wine Regions  
Romanian Grapes

The God of Wine

As legend has it, Dionysus, the god of wine, was born in Thracia, on what is nowadays the territory of Romania. Wine has been produced in this area since the 7th century BC. The abundance and fame of the Dacian (as this part of Thracia was called) wines were so well-known that, to put an end to the migratory people's incursions, the Dacian king Burebista (1st century BC) ordered all the vineyards destroyed. Of course, not all the vineyards were uprooted and soon may of them were replanted. After Dacia was conquered by the Romans (106 AD), on the coins issued by the victors, the new Roman province called Dacia Felix (Happy Dacia) was represented as woman to whom two children were offering grapes, a symbol of the regions main riches. During Roman times, vine growing was one of the basic occupations of the local inhabitants.

In more recent times, four phases of Romanian history have had a great influence on the country's wine industry: close links with France during the 19th century, equally close links with Germany and Austria in the inter-war years, the establishment of communist rule in 1948, and the liberalization of the economy in the post-1989 period.

The links with France were strong not only during the 19th century, but right up to the outbreak of the First World War. French culture, education, and engineering were much appreciated, and French was the formal language of the educated classes. When phylloxera hit Romania (the infestation was at its most destructive during the last two decades of the 19th century), it was natural that Romanian viticulturalists would seek advice and practical help from the French. The result was that much replanting post-phylloxera was carried out using "French" vine varieties: Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and others. Thus, these varieties have been in Romania for almost twice as long as in most other East-European countries.

One of the consequences of the shift in cultural ties in favor of Germany and Austria in the period between the First and Second World Wars was the introduction into Romania of the "spritzer": wine mixed with sparkling mineral water. Even today, this remains a popular way for Romanians to drink wine, which, in turn, has lead to a tendency for Romanians to prefer (and winemakers to produce) white wines with toned-down fruit flavors, since these, rather than strongly fruity wines, produce the best spritzers.

During the communist rule, three distinct types of wine-producing organizations developed: research establishments, wine estates, and co-operative vineyards linked to state wineries. The research establishments are fully owned and controlled by the government. In the early days, each research establishment operated independently, but in 1967 they became part of the National Institute for Vine and Wine Research, with its headquarters at Valea Calugareasca in the Dealu Mare region, and ten branches, one in each of Romania's main grape-growing regions. The Institute carries out all the usual work of such an organization: genetic improvement of vine material through breeding and clonal selection, rootstock propagation, development of improved vine cultivation technology, research into improved vinification. Wine estates are large enterprises comprising both vineyards and wineries. Before 1948, these estates would have been owned by wealthy individuals or families. With the coming of communist rule, the estates were nationalized and kept as single units. The majority of Romanian grapes were grown in "co-operative" vine farms which were formed by the enforced collectivization of previously peasant-owned land. The grapes from these "co-operatives" were vinified in state-owned wineries, each winery being allocated the production of the surrounding vineyards.

The liberalization of the Romanian economy after 1989 has left the research establishment largely unaffected. However, the "co-operative" vineyards have been returned to private hands. The state wineries and the wine estates are in the process of being privatized as well.

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Location, Climate and Soil

Although climatically very different, Romania lies on the same latitude as France, with a costal region on the Black Sea, Bulgaria to the south, Serbia and Hungary to the west, Ukraine to the north, and Moldova and part of Ukraine to the east. The main geographical feature is the Carpathian mountain range which splits the country, curving from the Ukranian border through the center towards Serbia in the south-west.

Climate and Soil
The general climate is continental with very hot summers and cold winters, alleviated slightly by the influence of the Black Sea, particularly in the extreme south-east. In the Transylvanian plateau, west and north of the Carpathian Mountains, the altitude gives slightly cooler summers than are found elsewhere in the country. The soils are varied; they are basically stony and well-drained around the Carpathians, but more alluvial and sandy in the coastal area.

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The Vineyards

The main wine regions of Romania are Tarnave, Dealu Mare, Murfatlar, and Cotnari.

The Tarnave region is situated in the cool plateau of Transylvania. The best vine growing area lies between the region's two main rivers, Tarnave Mica and Tarnave Mare. The microclimate is influenced not only by the region's altitude, but more markedly by the two rivers, which create daytime mists, especially between mid-August and mid-October. These mists cool the daytime temperatures and, as they are most common during the final ripening period of the fruit, slow down sugar assimilation, giving conditions in which fine fruit flavors can develop in the grapes.
The region produces white wines from the following grapes: Feteasca Regala, Welschreisling (known locally simply as Riesling), Traminer, Muscat Ottonel, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, and Sylvaner. The clone of Sauvignon Blanc planted in Tarnave is the Petit Sauvignon, which gives wines with a character of paprika rather than gooseberries, nettles, or asparagus.
Vine growers' skillfulness, based on a long tradition and encouraged by the climatic conditions, is shown in producing excellent dry or sweet and flavored wines such as Feteasca Alba, Rulander, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat Ottonel, and Traminer Rose. A typical Tarnave wine will have around 11% vol alcohol, medium balancing acidity (between 6 and 6.5 g/l tartaric), and fine fruit flavors.

Dealu Mare occupies an area of 15,000 ha on the slopes of the sub-Carpathian mountains to the south of the main range. A number of rivers flow through the region toward the Danube, enabling vines to be planted on terraced south-facing slopes. These slopes, together with the warm climate of the region, give ideal conditions for the production of rich, soft red wines without excessive tannins. The region is divided into five districts: Valea Calugaresca (Valley of the Monks), Ceptura, Tohani, Pietroasa, and Merei. Ceptura and Tohani are considered the best.
Dealu Mare is considered to be the best area in Romania for the cultivation of red grapes, the most important being Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Pinot Noir.
The only white wine of note is the sweet, aromatic Tamaioasa from Pietroasa, in the east of the region, in Pietroasele. Tamaiosa means "frankincense grape" and the variety is so named because of the intense perfume of its wine.

Murfatlar is a region with 2,000 ha of vine lying between 7 and 9 miles west of the Black Sea coast. It is a warm region with around 300 days of sunshine each year. However, the sun is tempered by the cool winds from the Black Sea, which extend the growing period by ten to fifteen days. This, along with the area's long, warm autumns, and the possibility that noble rot could develop in the favorable years, means that Murfatlar is ideally suited for the production of sweet, dessert wines, such as late harvest Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Muscat. Dry white wines are made from Welschriesling and Columna, a Pinot Gris/Grasa de Cotnari cross developed locally. Soft, rich wines are also produced, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot being the most important.

Cotnari is a region of 2000 ha situated near the border with Moldova. At 47 degrees north, Cotnari is approximately the same latitude as Muscadet de Sevre et Maine, but despite the northerly position, it has a warm microclimate. High hills to the north give protection from cold winds, and being an area of limestone hills, vineyards can be planted to benefit from southern exposure. These conditions, coupled with a tendency for autumns to be both hot and dry, give grapes with naturally high sugar levels. Picking can continue as far into the year as November, and local rivers, particularly the Bahlui, provide sufficient humidity for the development of noble rot. It is hardly surprising, therefore, that Cotnari produces what many believe to be Romania's finest wine: a sweet white from indigenous grapes which have been affected by noble rot.
The grapes used to make Cotnari are Grasa, Tamaioasa, Francusa and Feteasca Alba. The grapes are vinified separately and spend a minimum of one year in cask of wooden vat. Varietal wines from each of the individual grapes are available, but the prevailing opinion is that the "true" Cotnari is blend of all four varieties. Blending generally takes place shortly before the wine is bottled. Cotnari is generally considered at its peak after three to four years in bottle, but the best examples can continue to mature and develop for ten years or more.

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Grapes

Romanian vines include several native varieties which are still grown post-phylloxera, as well as some foreign varieties with well-known oenological characteristics, well adapted to Romanian vine-growing conditions. Of particular interest is the description of the native Romanian varieties. Native Varieties

Feteasca Alba
This is an old Romanian variety and is grown in most vineyards, especially in Moldavia and Transylvania. Wines are dry or semi-dry, having a balanced content of alcohol (11.5-12% by volume), acidity and sugar, and feature a natural finesse. At Cotnari, the Feteasca Alba yields natural semi-sweet and sweet wines produced by separate or assorted vinification.

Feteasca Regala
The variety originates from Transylvania and is grown in most vineyards. Wines ranges from table to high quality ones. The wines have an alcoholic content of 10.5-11.5% by volume. They are dry, fresh and have high acidity and a specific flavor.

Grasa de Cotnari
This grape belongs to the old Cotnari vineyard, where it has been grown since the days of Stephen the Great. It is picked when is shrivels and is attacked by botrytis cinerea. The sugar content is high: over 240 grams per litre.

Babeasca Neagra
The variety which yields Babeasca Neagra red wines is and old native grown in the vineyards of Moldavia (Odobesti, Cotesti, Panciu, as well as other areas located in the south of this viticultural zone).

Feteasca Neagra
An old indigenous variety, it is grown in several viticultural areas of central and southern Moldavia (Vrancea, Galati, Vaslui), as well as in Dealu Mare and Stefanesti Arges vineyards of Muntenia. They are dry or semi-dry (sugar content ranging between 6-12 grams per litre), have an alcohol content of 12-12.5% by volume, a deep red color with ruby shades, specific flavor resembling the blackcurrant and at the same time are robust and smooth, getting richer by ageing.

Tamaioasa Romaneasca
It is used for the production of high quality aromatic wines. Tamaioasa Romaneasca wines are naturally sweet or semi-sweet wines with an alcohol content of 12-12.5% by volume and an imposing originality offered by their yellow-golden color, complex flavor resembling field flowers and honey, persistent rich taste where alcohol, sugar and acidity reach a perfect harmony. Tamaiosa is usually released for sale as an aged wine when the frankincense character of the fruit is overlaid by a developed, honeyed bouquet. However, it can also be attractive when young, especially when the must has had extended cold skin contact before pressing and fermentation.

Foreign Varieties

Italian Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Muscat Ottonel, Sauvignon, Rose Traminer and Aligote (for white wine).
Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Merlot (for red wine).

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