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The History of Wine in South
Africa
 The arrival of Jan van
Riebeeck at the Cape in 1652 heralded the beginning of
wine-growing in South Africa. For it was he who recommended to the Dutch
East India Company that the Cape, with her suitable grape-growing climate
would serve as a useful victalling station for the ships on their passage
to the East. Thus in 1655 a shipment of grape vine cuttings, mainly from
France, arrived in Table Bay and soon after the first vineyards were
planted. In 1659 the first wine was made by Jan van Riebeeck himself.
The Commander's successful attempt greatly
inspired the Free Burghers, servants of the company who
had been freed to farm their own land. Vine cuttings were distributed
amongst them and they moved further inland to plant new vineyards and
forge a future for themselves as wine farmers. Neither Jan van Riebeeck
nor the Free Burghers held much viticultural knowledge or produced wine of
any fine quality and it was not until Simon van der Stel, the Governor of
the Cape, demonstrated personally that it was possible to produce
palatable wine, that the quality of the wine started improving.
 Simon van der
Stel bought Groot Constantia, made it into a model wine estate,
reorganised the local farming community by introducing crop quotas and
established Stellenbosch, the first settlement inland from Cape Town.
Willem Adrian van der Stel succeeded his father as the
governor of the Cape and although despised by the Free Burghers for his
tyranical style and corrupt practices, his useful contribution to
improving the vineyards in the Cape cannot be disputed. His Gardener's
Almanac reflects a detailed account of the progress he made and is
the first official record of a vineyard here in the Cape. The Free Burgher
rebellion in the Cape abruptly ended his career as Governor and in 1708 he
was banished to Holland where he spent the rest of his life in exile.
Groot Constantia, after a long period of
neglect and dishevelment, regained its former glory and much greater fame
when the Cloete family descended from Jan van Riebeeck's undergardener,
bought the farm in the late eighteenth century. Such was their success
that the Constantia wines came to fill the glasses of the famous:
Frederick of Prussia imported it, Jane Austin mentions it and Napolean
Bonaparte, improsoned on St. Helena, is known to have yearned for the
sweet wines of Constantia.
The French Huguenots furthe expanded the art of
viticulture, for on their arrival in the Cape in 1688, although they did
not have direct wine making experience, they brought with them their
culture and knowledge of vineyard and cellar practice. Most of the
Huguenots settled in the Franschhoek Valley where the names of the farms
today bear testimony to its French past.
Having gained from France's eviction of the
Protestants, the Free Burghers one again prospered from the strife tearing
through Europe during the eighteenth century. As a result of the wars the
French wine trade was cut off from England who then looked to the Cape for
sweet wine, ports and sherries and thus brought great wealth to the
colony. With this affluence came the establishment of the elegant Cape
Dutch Homesteads which today keep the nostalgic charm of the past alive in
the winelands.
 This, however, was a honeymoon
period as political turmoil, economic distress with the loss of the
overseas wine market and the removal of protective trade tariffs ensued,
bringing great hardship to the wine farmers. The culminating factor
occurred in 1885 when the devistating epidemic of louse-like aphids,
commonly called Phylloxera, struck and destroyed most of the wines in
South Africa and Europe.
Once research showed that North American vines
were immune to Phylloxera and American rootstock was grafted onto Cape
vines - an essential feature, which is still practiced today, the
vineyards of the Cape were slowly restored. But with the restoration of
the vineyards came disaster of a different kind. Ironically recovery was
too fruitful, uncontrolled overproduction resulted and, without the
overseas market to absorb the excess, millions of litres of wine had to be
poured away. Many destitute farmers were left bankrupt and many migrated
to the towns.
The romantic and idyllic lifestyle often
associated with winefarming was a far cry from the struggles faced by the
Free Burgher, a person rebellious by nature. The occupation of the colony
by the British after the Dutch departed in 1806 perpetuated their plight.
With the new colonists came new legislation, the most controversial of
which was the emancipation of slaves in 1834. For many Burghers already
disgruntled with government, having their convenient source of labour
undermined was the final straw and lead to their mass migration to the
North - known in the historical annals as the Great Trek.
Amidst the turmoil and severe setbacks suffered
in the country and more especially the winelands came a positive
breakthrough which was to change the winemaking process forever and
dramatically improve the quality of wine. After analysing wine under a
microscope Louis Pasteur, in 1863, discovered that
because of wine's organic nature every stage of the winemaking process
could be controlled. This major development in scientific viticulture
later proved to be greatly significant in the history of South African
wine as it inspired the well-known South African viticulturalist,
Professor Perold, to experiment and cross Pinot Noir and
Cinsaut (commonly known as Hermitage). In 1925 he successfully produced
the Pinotage wine - South Africa's only local cultivar.
 Meanwhile major inroads had been
made in the history of South Africa. The Anglo-Boer War, fought in the
North, culminated in the Peace of Vereeniging in 1902, when the Boer
Republics lost their independence and became part of the British Empire.
Eight years later, with the declaration of the Act of Union, both the Boer
Republics and the Cape were incorporated into a new country to form the
Union of South Africa.
In an effort to rescue the wine industry,
crippled by over-production, the hardships of war and economic stress, the
first co-operative was established in 1905. The co-operative system aimed
to replace the traditional trend, where farmers competed amongst each
other, with a system of collective bargaining and marketing. A further
advantage was that machinery and technical knowledge could be pooled.
In spite of the distinct advantages of this
system the problem of over-production still had not been entirely overcome
due to the lack of authority held by the co-operative. In response to this
problem the Ko-operatieve Wijnbouwers Vereniging van Zuid Afrika
Beperkt (KWV) was formed in 1918.
KWV is today a dynamic commercial organisation
which markets internationally while supplying products to domestic
wholesalers acting as administrator of the wine industry at producer level
and also offering a wide range of specialised services to winefarmers and
the public.
The organisation handles about 70 percent of
South African wine exports. KWV represents 4,919 producers. Its objectives
are to ensure long-term stability of the industry and to maintain a
rewarding return for both the producer and the organisation.
 In 1935, the largest of the
producing wholesalers, Stellenbosch Farmers' Winery (SFW), was founded by
an American doctor, William Charles Winshaw. Together with Mr Krige Jnr
whose father had purchased a section of 'Libertas' farm on the northern
bank of the Eerste River in Stellenbosch, Winshaw started producing wine
on the farm they called Oude Libertas. As a former doctor and converted
wine maker he concentrated mainly on natural wine as he believed it to be
a healthier drink than the fortified wines consumed at the time. He gained
great acclaim with the launch of the dry white Lieberstein wine, sales of
which soared to record heights. Lieberstein became the world's largest
selling branded wine.
Later, mergers and takeovers of other
wholesalers such as Monis of Paarl, VH Metterson, Nederburg and
Sedgwick-Taylor resulted in SFW become the producer and marketer of a
large range of natural and fortified wines and spirits. The second biggest
producing wholesaler, Distillers Corporation was launched in 1945. This
company also expanded through mergers and takeovers of companies like the
Drostdy Co-operative Cellars and South African Distillers. In 1974
Distillers Coporation formed Bergkelder, an original marketing concept
which invited wine estates to make use of the corporation's bottling,
sales and marketing expertise and maturation facilities.
In 1979 the most important merger in wine
history occurred, and one which restructured the liquor industry as a
whole. Distillers, SFW and its imported product subsidiary, Henry Taylor
and Ries merged and became co-subsidiaries of a holding company, Cape Wine
and Distillers (CWD).
 In 1988 CWD was disolved and
Distillers and SFW were listed separately on the Johannesburg Stock
Exchange. South African Breweries (SAB), Rembrandt and KWV each have 30
percent shares in these companies, while the public has access to the
remainder. W & A Gilbeys is also a major liquor wholesale merchant in
South Africa. Other independent wholesalers include Douglas Green
Bellingham (DGB), Jonkheer Farmers Winery and Mooiuitsig Wynkelders.
Jan van Riebeeck may never
have dreamed that out of the humble vineyard planted in his garden at the
foot of Table Mountain would grow sprawling wine farms and complex
corporations, and yet their raison d'etre remains the same. For nature has
endowed the southern tip of the African continent, with a climate
well-suited for grape growing and has over the centuries attracted people
to exploit its full potential. .
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CONSTANTIA
Constantia covers the historic Constantia valley, the site of Simon van der
Stel's historic farm and the source of the Constantia dessert wine which was so
famous during the 19th Century. There are five wine cellars in the ward and
these continue the tradition of producing excellent wine
The vineyards cling to the slopes of Constantiaberg an extension of Table
Mountain with the city of Cape Town spread out below. The vines benefit from
shade Cast by the mountain in the afternoon and from the cool sea breezes
blowing in from False Bay only 8 kilometres away. Rainfall is high and no
irrigation is needed.
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SWARTLAND
The district of Swartland borders Piketberq to the north and is not
dissimilar in both geography and climate.
Swartland was traditionally a source of robust, full-bodied red wines and
high quality, fortified wines. Today it produces good inexpensive light wines as
well as prize winning products from noble grape varieties - top port wines, and
increasingly natural wines for export.
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TULHAGH
TULHAGH
Surrounded on three sides by the great Winterhoek Mountains, the vineyards of
the Tulhagh District grow alongside orchards and fields of wheat.
Soils in the valley are extremely variable. from sandy soils on the valley
floor to very stony soils on the mountain slopes. Summer temperatures are warm,
although the mountainous terrain creates numerous different micro-climates which
can be used to good advantage.
At present there are five wine producing estates and two co- operatives in
the Tulbagh District.
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WORCESTER
The Worcester District, with nineteen co-operatives, annually contributes a
quarter of South Africas total wine production. It is also the most important
brandy producing area and home of the KWV Brandy Cellar. the largest of its kind
in the world.
This district covers a large proportion of the Breede River Valley and its
tributaries. It is surrounded by mountains on three sides and borders Robertson
to the East.
There are marked variations between the soils and microclimates in three
different river valleys
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DURBANVILLE
Durbanville. like Constantia, lies very close to Cape Town and some of the
vineyards have been swallowed up by her northern suburbs.
Despite this, four
estates continue to make a wide variety of wine styles although the emphasis is
on red. These wine estates are situated mainly on the hill slopes. The soils
here, known as Clovelly and Hutton, are deep and well drained. Sea breezes
moderate the summer heat and dry the atmosphere thereby minimising the risk of
fungus and disease
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LITTLE KAROO
This is an elongated region, running east to west from Montagu to Oudtshoorn.
The climate is one of extremes with warm summers and lower rainfall. Vineyards
tend to be planted in river valleys where water for irrigation is plentiful.
The Little Karoo produces some of South Africa's most renowned fortified
wines. Look out also for Chenin blanc, as this grape's naturally high acidity
and fruitiness makes it particularly suitable for warmer areas.
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OLIFANTS RIVER
This region stretches in a belt from north to south along the broad valley of
the Olifants River. Again, summers are relatively warm compared to some of South
Africa's other wine areas and rainfall is relatively low. Soils vary from sandy
soils to red clay loams.
With careful canopy management so that the grapes are shaded by the vine's
leaves and with modern wine making techniques, the Olifants River is emerging as
an important source of good, value-for-money wines.
Olifants River incorporates the wards of Vredendal,Spruitdrift, Lutzville
Valley and Koekenaap.
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OVERBERG
New viticultural areas such as Elgin and Walker Bay have been opened up in
this cool southerly district. The latter near the seaside town of Hermanus, is
now the source of some of South Africa's finest, Chardonnay, Pinot noir and
Sauvignon blanc.
These vineyards, some of which are close to the sea, benefit from cool
Atlantic breezes. The soils, weathered shales and the terroir, are ideal for
cool climate loving varieties
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PAARL
Paarl, a scenic town about 50 kilometres from Cape Town, is home to KWV and
the venue for the world famous Nederburg Auction. In addition to these claims to
fame, however, Paarl is also one of South Africa's premier wine producing
districts, and home to some of her most prestigious wine producers and most
progressive co-operatives.
The climate is typically Mediterranean, the summers are long and warm, annual
rainfall is approximately 650 mm, not as high as Constantia for example, but
enough to make irrigation less crucial, except in exceptional circumstances.
Local soils fall into three main types:
- Table Mountain Sandstone near the Berg River.
- Granite soils in the vicinity of Paarl itself.
- Weathered shales to the north-east.
A large variety of grapes
are grown in Paarl of which Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinotage, Chardonnay, Chenin
blanc and Sauvignon blanc have the best potential for export.
The Paarl District includes the ward of Franschhoek which has retained its
French Huguenot character, a factor which is reflected in the wines.
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PICKETBERG
High summer temperatures occur in the Piketberg District and irrigation is
common as a result of the low annual rain-fall. Most of the wines are made by
co-operative cellars.
The investment they have made in new technology, new
vine clones and improved techniques in the vineyard have led to the emergence of
a new generation of table wines at very reasonable prices.
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ROBERTSON
The Robertson District's lime rich soil makes it eminently suitable for
grazing for race horse stud farming and also for good wine. The summer
temperatures are high and the average annual rainfall is around 400 millimetres.
The construction of a major dam at the beginning of the century brought reliable
and inexpensive irrigation and this led to the proliferation of Robertsons many
wine estates and co- operatives.
Today, Robertson is renowned for the quality of its wines.It is the source of
some of the Cape's most revered Chardonnays anti Shiraz wines, while continuing
to produce the distinctive fortified dessert wines for which it was originally
famed.
The district of Robertson incorporates several wards. Stellenbosch The
beautiful University town of Stellenbosch lies at the centre of South Africas
premier wine producing district. Stellenbosch is the only university with a
viticultural and oenological department and has trained many of South Africa's
most successful winemakers. The Elsenburg School of Agriculture is also near
Stellenbosch, as is the Nietvoorbij Institute of Viticulture and Oenology This
organisation has one of the most modern experimental wineries and distilleries
in the world. At its experimental farms (situated in several wine growing
districts) important research into new varietals, clones and root- stocks is
done.
Conditions in this district are particularly well suited to many of the noble
vine varieties. The Hutton and Clovelly soils of the valley floors give way to
more granitic soils on the mountain slopes. The average rainfall varies from 600
to 800 mm a year.
The thirty two wine producers and thirty four estates include many of the
most famous names in South African wine. The district produces excellent
examples of almost all the noble grape varieties and is very well known for the
quality of its blended reds.
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