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COTES DU MARMANDAIS
Reaching as far back in time as wine making archives permit, Marmalades wines
have always been appreciated by connoisseurs. In 1715, The lntendant General,,
Lamoignon classified them among the best quality wines. Shipments went off to
England at regular intervals. Moreover, in the 18th and 19th centuries,
Marmandais wines were exported to most countries and the Dutch were among the
most faithful consumers
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Vineyards
The area in which Cotes du Marmandais is produced lies on
the group of hills bordering both shores of the Garonne river and overlooking
the rich plain separating these two wine-making sectors.
The hills on the
right-hand shore are clayey and calcarious, identical to those of the
neighbouring region Entre-Deux-Mer, The hills on the left-hand shore have a soil
similar to that of the Graves region of which they are an immediate extension;
this soil is composed of gravel, rolled quartz and large grains of sand, and the
subsoil is hardpan.
The vineyards are situated at an average altitude of 50
meters and are in constant expansion. Yield per hectare is 50 hectolitres of
white, red or rose wines.
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Grapes/Wine Characteristics
Grape Varieties
Grape varieties for red wines are Cabernet
Sauvignon, Cabernet Frane and Merlot, to which should be added Syrah, Malbec and
two local grape varieties: Abouriou and Fer Servadou, which give these wines
their personality. For white wines, grape varieties are Semillon, Sauvignon and
Ugni blanc. The proper- tion of Sauvignon increases steadily each year.
Wine Characteristics
Cotes du Marmandais wines are red, white or
rose, but white and rose wines represent only a small part of production. Like
all V.D.Q.S. (Vin Delimite de Oualite Superieure) wines, Cotes du Marmandais
wines may obtain the label only after passing tasting tests before a panel of
experts.
Two cooperatives, each situated on one of the shores of the Garonne
river, are responsible for 95 % of production and marketing. Red wines have a
lovely, bright red colour; they are fine and supple with that special bouquet
derived from the local soil. White wines, in which the taste of the Sauvignon
grape variety is dominant, are dry, aromatic and very fruity. The roses are
characterized by a finesse which renders them pleasant and full-tasting.
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Advice from the Sommelier
Whites should be drunk at 10c and go
perfectly well with fish dishes and other seafood. Roses, which must be served
very cool, are recommended with charcuterie and hors-d'oeuvre, but may be served
during the entire meal, for they are supple and light.
Red wines should be
served at 15c and harmonize their personality and their fullness with red meat,
roasts, grilled meat and even cheeses. They reach the fullness of their bouquet
after the third year's ageing and are then highly appreciated.
Ageing Qualities
White and rose wines should be drunk young, while
they retain the full aroma of their fruit. Red wines improve through ageing but
attain the maximum of their quality potential during the fifth year and,
sometimes, for the best years, during the eighth.
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JURANCON-JURANCON SEC
History
Jurancon wine is produced from vines grown over an area of
600 hectares on the hillsides facing the grandeur of the Pyrenees. These ancient
vines boast a royal history.
In the 14th century, the Princes of Bearn and
the Navarre parliament introduced the concept of "cru". based on the value of
the parcels of vines. This was a first attempt at wine classification in France,
and was introduced in Jurancon long before its use in any other French wine
region. It was meant as a protective measure to preserve the authenticity of the
wines. In 1553. when Henri IV--the future "Henry the Great"--was born
Jurancon wine became a part of French history: when the royal infant was
christened, his Iips were rubbed with a clove of garlic and moistened with a
drop of Jurancon wine from which he derived a vigour and an ardent spirit which
were never to leave him. After many centuries--including the many changes that
have recently taken place-- the outstanding quality of Jurancon wine has been
recognised and has regained its aristocratic seal of approval.
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Vineyards
The vineyards cover an area of some forty kilometres in
a hilly region (average elevation 300 metres) not far from Lourdes and Biarritz.
They consist of small parcels of vines hidden in sunny combes rising among the
verdant palms and banana-trees, from the terraces of the Chateau de Pau to the
imposing heights of the Pyrenees.
In order to utilise the best land--which is
often very steep--the vines can be planted in terraces sometimes taking the
shape of an amphitheatre. The silicoclay soil contains many round pebbles
carried down by the mountain streams and glaciers of the Pyrenees. The wine
region divided by a line running from east to west: to the south of this line
the subsoil is formed from the marine sediment deposited before and during the
formation of the Pyrenees; to the north of this line, the soil is inland soil:
Jurancon conglomerate. chalk and clay pebbles with siliceous gravel--deposited
during the formation of the Pyrenees. Climate
A severe mountain
climate: the vines are espalier-trained because of the risk of Spring frost; a
mild oceanic climate: regular rainfall which guarantees that the vines develop
properly; a hot southern climate, particularly with the fine Indian summer
enjoyed in Bearn and the south wind which permits "passerillage" or "raisining",
a technique used in the production of the great sweet wines to allow the grapes
to become overripe.
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Grapes'Wine
Grape Varieties
Specific local varieties are grown which are suited
to the weather conditions: the plants are very tall to avoid the Spring frosts;
the grapes are very resistant to extreme weather conditions. Gros Manseng 70 %:
basic grape for. young Jurancon sec and Jurancon moelleux. Petit Manseng 25 %: a
variety with small grapes and thick skin, very suitable for "passerillage".
("raisining ); produces the great sweet wines for laying down. Courbu,
Camaralet, Lauzet 5 %: these contribute an aroma with a hint of spice.
The Wines
The marine sediments in the south and the inland soils of
the north produce white wines which are an ideal accompaniment fort fish and
foie gras. Juracon Sec: the robe is golden. with a hint of green; when young,
the wine develops an aroma of flowers (broom, acacia and passion fruit) ; when
aged, it has a flavour of toasted almond and dried fruit: virile wines full of
character--in the mouth they are round, with an aromatic sappy savour and
length. Juracon: the sweet wines combine the roundness of sugar and the
liveliness imparted by a hint of acidity which ensures mellowness, vigour and
good construction. The robe is "greeny gold" in the case of the young wines and
"old gold" when the wines have aged. Nose: Jurancon exhales the aromas of
flowers, honey, toast and candled fruit. These are wines of light and amber
which form part of the famous family of great sweet wines of France.
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Advice from the Sommelier
The structure and aroma of Jurancon sec
(dry Jurancon) and the balance and liveliness of Jurancon moelleux (sweet
Jurancon) mean that they are wines for the gastronome and may accompany a wide
range of foods.
Juracon Sec, when young, should be served at a temperature of
8c - 10c with shellfish, crustaceans and grilled fish or with oven-baked fish in
sauce.More mature wines should be served at a temperature of 10-12c with
salmon. moutain trout, glass eels, coquilles St Jacques... and also as an
aperitif, with entries, charcuterie, asparagus omelette, piperade, goat's milk
cheese (plain or with mulberry cream flavoured with armagnac).
Juracon may be
served at a temperature of 10c-12c as an aperitif and throughout the meal with
foie gras (semi-cooked duck's liver) or smoked salmon, white meat in sauce,
Pyrenean ewes' milk cheese and roquefort .
Ageing qualities
According to the type of grape, the method of
vinification and after-care, the wines may be drunk young or allowed to acquire
the structure necessary for laying down. Young wines: bottled in the winter
following the harvest; may be drunk within 2 or 3 years when the fruit and
freshness can best be enjoyed. The great wines: 2 years after-care before
bottling, wines suitable for laying down: 5 to 10 years for the dry wine which
acquires a bouquet of rare distinction. 15 to 25 years for the sweet wine which
becomes a veritable liqueur with a powerful and sumptuous bouquet.
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COTES DU BRULHOIS
Historical Background
Historical records mention the vineyards and
wines of the Cotes du Brulhois even in the period of Roman Gaul. Production
increased considerably during the English occupation, when Edward I granted
special planting privileges. The brisk trade in Cotes du Brulhois at that time
is illustrated by the agreement listing transport charges from the inland
production centres to Bordeaux which shows that, in the year 1306-1307, 48,000
hectolitres of this wine were exported by river to the Atlantic.
Wine production decreased dramatically in the nineteenth and twentieth
centuries as vineyard workers migrated to the towns. However, dense pockets of
vines still remained, perpetuating the vine growing traditions and customs while
the practice of holding wine fairs and festivals was continued. Concerted
efforts made under the direction of the Syndicat des Vignerons (Growers'
Association) resulted in a partial rehabilitation of the best land, while the
introduction in 1984 of the Appellation d'0rigine VDQS firmly established the
reputation of Cotes du Brulhois wine.
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Vineyards
The wine-growing region
An area of 1 0,000 hectares distributed
over 42 communes is aIIocated to Brulhois vines. almost all on the left bank of
the Garonne, although at present only 200 hectares are cultivated. The
production potential is therefore very considerable and the 12,000 hectolitres
of wine currently produced annually cannot fail to increase. The vines are
grown on terraces and hills overlooking the river. The soil is sometimes arid,
often stony and always very dry in summer. It is on this soil and its subsoil of
large stones, warmed by the mild Aquitaine climate, that the vines ripen to
perfection.
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Grapes/Wine
Grape Varieties
The main varieties grown are the Tannat, Cabernet
Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot together with some Cot and Fer Servadou,
with their distinctive aromas. Four thousand vine stocks are planted per
hectare, while the maximum production allowed is limited to 50 hectolitres per
hectare.
Character and Style
The wines of Brulhois. known since the
thirteenth century as "Black Wines", are actually a deep ruby red in colour.
Their harmonious ripening and the presence of distinctive grape varieties give
them a very noticeable "gout de terroir" ('tang' of the soil). As the wines
mature and improve. the aroma of black-and
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Advice from the Sommelier
Served chilled, the roses are a perfect
accompaniment for charcuterie, grills or, more unusually, seafood. The red
wines, served at between 12 and 14°C, identify themselves perfectly with the
traditional dishes of the region, such as confits, cepes, cassoulet and red
meat, hare, etc., and with cheese. In the case of the mature red wines, the cork
should be removed an hour or two before serving and the wine brought slowly to
room temperature.
Ageing Qualities
The rose wine should be drunk while young. The red
wine may be served during its second year but reaches the peak of perfection
towards the fifth year of its life.
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BERGERAC
There is little doubt that the vine was first planted here by the Romans, but
since then viticuIture has grown tremendously and has become one of the economic
strong points of the region. The climate is that of the region of Bordeaux, the
temperature is very mild and is highly favourable to viticulture.
The river
Dordogne flows through this part of France and the vines spread out on the
terraces on both sides of the river. The soils vary considerably from alluvial
silt to chalk and clayish chalk. The vineyard covers some 27 000 acres,
producing mainly white wines, both dry and sweet but also some red and rose
wines. Since 1966 the percentage of red wines has increased and now accounts for
about 50 % of the total production.
The Appellation d'Origine ControIee
[A.O.C.) "Bergerac" also includes "Cotes de Bergerac", "Cotes de Bergerac
moelleux" and "Saussignac".
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Grapes/Wine
The grape varieties used are the same as for
Bordeaux : RED; for Cotes de Bergerac and Bergerac: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec. WHITE: for all Dordogne A.O.C. white wines the
varieties main by used are: Semillon, Sauvignon and Muscadelle.
Characteristics of the wines
The red wines of "Bergerac" are
pleasant and well-rounded wines. The red "Cotes de Bergerac" have more body than
the former. The rose wines of Bergerac are pleasing wines, with much bouquet and
fruit. The dry white wines or "Bergerac Sec" are very fruity, fairly light and
have much fragrance thanks to the Sauvignon grapes. The sweet "Cotes de
Bergerac", "Cotes de Bergerac moelleux" and "Saussignac" are rich, sweet wines.
virile and yet sweet and elegant.
Ageing Qualities
The red Bergerac should be consumed young. The red
Cotes de Bergerac, having more body, are better after 3 to 5 years in a bottle.
Percharmant
The Pecharmant is a red wine produced on gravelly
slopes, facing south on the right bank of the river Dordogne and covering some
550 acres. Earlier on the Rosette, a sweet white wine was produced in this area
but nowadays its production is purely symbolical.
Grape Varieties
For the Pecharmant: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec.
Characteristics of the wines
Pecharmant is a red wine with much
body, generous and well rounded. It has a brilliant ruby red colour and ages
with elegance.
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Advice from the Sommelier
The wine of Monbazillac is a magnificent
aperitif and accompanies to perfection melon, foie gras and sweet dishes. It is
also very good with fish in sauce and Roquefort cheese. It should be served very
cold at say 7c or 8c.
This is also the right temperature for the other sweet
white wines such as Cotes de Bergerac moelleux, Saussignac, Haut-Montravel and
Cotes deMontravel. At 9°C, or 10oC, the dry white wines such as Bergerac or
Montravel accompany perfectly sea-food. Serve the rose wines at the same
temperature. The red wines of Bergerac, Cotes de Bergerac and Pecharmant are
best at 18"C, if they are old, with meat dishes game and cheese. Throughout the
meal, and all times during the day the various wines of the region of Bergerac
is able to satisfy the most discriminating connoisseurs.
Ageing Qualities
Pecharmant improves with age and should be laid
down for 5 years or more, so as to appreciate all its qualities.
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COTES DU FRONTONNAIS
As early as the Merovingian era, the cleared patches of the forest of Agre
were planted with vines as is mentioned in the Nizezius Charter. In the 12th
century the Frontonnais vineyard is the property of the Knights of St John of
Jerusalem, who actively supported vine cultivation in this Commandery.
Through
the centuries such famous tasters as Pope Calixtus ll, King Louis XIII and the
Cardinal de Richelieu were able to enjoy, on the spot, the high quality of the
wines of the region.
As a reward for the constant efforts towards quality of the
vine growers, this vineyard received the Appellation d'Origine Contro1ee
(A.O.C.) in 1975. The Cotes du Frontonnais are the result of the amalgamation of
two vineyards. They are entitled to add to their appellation the names of
Fronton or Villaudric.
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Vineyards
Lying at the gates of Toulouse, this vineyard is
spread on ancient terraces of the Tarn between the river Tarn and the river
Garonne The soil is poor, gravelly and dry.
Both iron and quartz predominate and
impart to the wines fullness and bouquet. The vineyard covers some 1,200
hectares and produces a yearly average of 55,000 hectolitres of red and rose
wines.
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Grapes/Wine
The peculiarity of the Cotes du Frontonnais
vineyard is due to one grape variety; the Negrette. This is a very ancient
variety found exclusively in this region throughout the centuries. This is the
main variety for both red and rose wines, and it is due to this variety, that
the wines of the Cotes du Frontonnais have their own particular bouquet. The
other varieties cultivated in this vineyard are the Gamay, the Cabernet Franc,
the Cabernet Sauvignon, the Cot and the Syrah.
Characteristics of the wines
This vineyard produces only red and
rose wines. The wines of the Cotes du Frontonnais are powerful wines, with a
ruby colour, a pronounced bouquet where the aroma of prunes and blackcurrants
predominate, at least for the young wines. For older wines the bouquet has more
nuances. The rose wines have a light colour, an exquisite bouquet, these are
very distinguished and yet friendly wines.
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Advice from the Sommelier
The rose wines of the Cotes du
Frontonnais should be served cool at say 8c or 10c with hors-d'oeuvre,
delicatessen meat and even throughout a meal in summer.
The red wines, when
young can be served cool, say 12c, with grilled or roast meat and cheese from
the Pyrenees. The older wines, those with a vintage, being fuller wines, should
be served at 16c or 17c with richer food such as Cassoulet or Goose conserve.
Ageing Qualities
The rose wines should be consumed young. The red
wines are ready very quickly, although some of them, those with a vintage, can
be easily laid down for a few years.
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TURSAN
The Tursan vineyards exist since the earliest antiquity. They were part of
the domains of Alienor, Duchess of Aquitania, when she married Henry Plantagenet
II, King of England.
As early as 1152, Tursan wines were exported to England,
where they were highly esteemed, as well as to Cordoba and Sevilla. Then, from
the 15th to 18th centuries, they won over Rotterdam and all of Holland, and
Hamburg and all of Germany.
Harvested, vinified and "raised" in accordance
with the most modern methods, Tursan wines have enjoyed since 1958 the
"Appellation d'Origine" quality label: "Vin Delimite de Qualite Superieure".
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Vineyards
Today, Tursan vines still ripen slowly on the lower
foothills of the Pyrenees, with their subsoil composed of limestone Molasses and
stony Scree. The sunny exposure of the slopes and pre-mountain severity tempered
by the nearby Atlantic, constitute a particularly propitious micro-climate for
ripening.
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Grapes/Wine
A single grape variety --Barroque-- for typical
white wines. For red wines full of finesse and aroma: sturdy Tannat for the
flavour of the soil and subtle mixture of Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon. For
rare roses. Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc. Maximum yield per hectare has been
set purposely at 45 hectoliters.
Characteristics and Ageing
Whites and roses reach fulfilment
quickly; young wines are very fruity. "Paysage" --grade reds stem from short
maceration; supple and mouth-filling, they are at once pleasing. "Selection"
--grade reds are more traditional and sturdier. They will be better appreciated
after several years of ageing
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Advice from the Sommelier
Advice from the Sommelier
The rose wines of the Cotes du
Frontonnais should be served cool at say 8c or 10c with hors-d'ceuvre,
delicatessen meat and even throughout a meal in summer. The red wines, when
young can be served cool, say 12c, with grilled or roast meat and cheese from
the Pyrenees.
The older wines, those with a vintage, being fuller wines,
should be served at 16c or 17c with richer food such as Cassoulet or Goose
conserve.
Ageing Qualities
The rose wines should be consumed young. The red
wines are ready very quickly, although some of them, those with a vintage, can
be easily laid down for a few years.
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MADIRAN
Madiran vineyards exist since Gallo-Roman times, as proved by the third
century mosaics discovered in excavations made in the Taron villa. Their
original creation dates back to the eleventh century when the abbey of Madiran
was founded by the Benedictine friars, from Burgundy.
Used for a long time as
wine for mass, Madiran wines became famous when discovered by pilgrims passing
through the region on their way to the shrine in Santiago de Compostela.
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Vineyards
Straddling three French "departements", Madiran
consists of hillside vineyards covering about 1,200 hectares. It is situated
south of the Armagnac region, 40 km north of Pau and Tarbes. Rather far from the
Pyrenees chain, it is subjected to a climatic influence which is essentially
oceanic: relatively mild winters, hot, stormy summers and dry, very sunny
autumns, propitious for excellent maturation.
Soils are, in general,
clayey/calcareous and clayey/siliceous. A very high quality white wine,
Pacherenc du Vic Bilh, is produced in the same area as Madiran.
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Grapes/Wine
Four grape varieties enter into the composition of
Madiran wines: ·
Tannat is the basic variety (40 to 60% of the blend). Quite
typical, it gives the wine its good balance and originality, with a slight
astringency. a potent aroma and a mouth-filling richness.
Cabernet Frane (or
Bouchy) and Sauvignon bring smoothness, bouquet and finesse to the wine.
Fer
Servadou (or Pinenc), with the bouquet of its native soil, is produced in very
small volume.
Pacherene du Vic BiIh is produced from six varieties: Arrufiac
(which gives it its gun-flint taste), gros and petit Menseng, Courbu, Sauvignon
and Semillon.
Characteristics of the wines
Very rich in tannins, Madiran is a
well-balanced red wine which is slightly astringent when young. By decree, it
must be aged for a year before marketing. Following 2 or 3 years in the bottle,
its tannins soften and it develops aromas of great finesse combining hints of
spices and toasted bread. Annual production is about 60,000 hectolitres.
Pacherenc du Vic Bilh, of which production is, alas! confidential (3,000
hectolitres), may be either a dry or a sweet white wine. Powerful and rich, it
possesses very complex aromas of almonds, and exotic fruits.
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Advice from the Sommelier
Served at 15-16 "C, Madiran accompanies
red meats very well as it does game and cheeses. It goes marvellously well with
regional dishes: "magret" or potted duck, "entrecote" with Béarnaise sauce,
salmis of ring-doves and cheeses from the Pyrenees. Pacherenc du Vic Bilh should
be served at about 8c. The dry is recommended with shellfish and fish. The sweet
wine is best drunk as an aperitif, with foie gras, fish in sauce or ewe's milk
cheeses.
Ageing Qualities
Madiran reaches its full development after 4 to 8
years but is very pleasing when much younger, as well. Dry Pacherene du Vic Bilh
is drunk when young; the sweet improves with age. Great bottles of Madiran and
sweet Pacherenc may easily exceed 10 years of age.
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SOUTHWEST LAVILLEDIEU
An age-old wine region: a century-and-a-half before Christ,
the Terrasses de Lavilledieu region formed part of the Narbonne province
conquered by the Romans. To repulse attack from the Gauls, Julius Caesar himself
organised the defence of this strip of land bounded by the Tarn and the Garonne.
The Romans introduced the vine here.
Centuries later, the monks from the great abbeys cleared the forest of Agre
and replaced it with the vine, which flourished on this infertile soil. Adelaide
de Tourvieu founded Lavilledieu which was subse- quently-in 1154-granted to the
Commanders of the Templars. In the fourteenth century, during the Hundred Years'
War, the region was occupied by the English under the command of the Black
Prince, son of the Plantagenet King Edward III of England. Lavilledieu wines
were transported to Bordeaux by river and thence to England.
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Vineyards
The region consists of 13 villages on the poor (
boulbene) soils of the terraces of the Tarn and Garonne: La
Ville-Dieu-du-Temple, Albefeuille-Lagarde, Barry-d'lslemade, Les Barthes,
Bressols. Castelsarrasin. Escatalens, Labastide-du-Temple, Lacourt-Saint-Pierre,
Meauzac, Montbeton, Montech and Saint-Porquier. These fine-grained alluvial and
siliceous soils rest on a subsoil of large stone or hard iron pans.
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Grapes/Wine
A number of grape varieties are planted in the
vineyards. A harmonious blend of Negrette, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Syrah, Gamay and Tannat grapes gives Lavilledieu wine its special qualities.
The wines
In October 1947, Lavilledieu wines were granted the
V.D.O.S. (Vin Delimite de Oualite Superieure) label on condition that yield is
Iimited to 45 hectolitres per hectare. (Any wine aspiring to the V.D.O.S. seal
must submit an unnamed sample for approval by a tasting committee.) Red
Lavilledieu wine has a fine, bright robe and a pleasant bouquet; it is
well-balanced. round and velvety. with plenty of body. The rose is fruity,
aromatic, fresh and soft.
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Advice from the Sommelier
Served chilled, rose Lavilledieu wines
make pleasant partners for cold meats and grills. Served at room temperature
(16c to 18c), the reds will by particularly appreciated when drunk with the
traditional regional dishes: cassoulet, confit d'oie or confit de canard, etc.,
and of course with cepes and cheese. When young, these wines may be served with
grilled meat and terrines, but at a lower temperature.
Ageing Qualities
Lavilledieu rose should be drunk while young. The
red wine may be aged for a few years and will retain all its fine qualities.
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